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Meanwhile, an authentic Italian restaurant and bar
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MEANWHILE is a newly opened Italian restaurant based on authentic Italian recipes and a well-designed wine and cocktail list that adds to its charm.
It is a new fine dining experience from the PizzaExpress Group and its flagship store opened at the end of January in the north block of Xintiandi. The restaurant and bar features a modern interior design that isn’t straight up Italian cliche, more contemporary cool with a sense of luxury. Cozy sofa chairs and an intimate seating area surrounds the central bar area, creating a casual, refreshing vibe.
The place is an ideal spot to visit any occasion of the day — a chilling afternoon coffee on the sofa, a relaxing aperitivo on the outdoor space, a friends gathering for fine dining or a late night drink at the bar.
The menu is created by executive chef consultant Jose Graziosi, who said: “Meanwhile is a place where the essence of Italian cuisine is condensed. We select fresh ingredients, inherit traditional cooking skills and innovate.”
Graziosi is currently head chef at the Hotel Endsleigh at Milton Abbot in Devon. After several years learning his craft in some of the best kitchens in Europe, he emphasizes the quality and freshness of his produce, as well as adding his own creative touch, obviously felt by trying out the dishes here.
Before my dinner began, bar manager Aaron J. Feder recommended a classic Negroni that has a smoother balance and varied layers of bitterness than usual thanks to the smart blend of three Italian vermouths — Cocchi Torino, Carpano Antica and Carpano Classico.
Feder created a faithful menu with carefully selected spirits along with a signatures menu focusing on Italian aperitif and Amari to pair with before, during or after the meal. The dinner experience is meant to be more complete.
Both of the appetizers and mains were flawless and delicious. The kitchen team has the know-how when to add a sparkle of acidity to enhance the flavors yet achieving a total balance.
Arancini al funghi porcini with creamy wild mushroom and truffle rice filling and peperoni ripieni di salsiccia, which is a romanesco pepper filled with Italian sausage meat, herbs, ricotta cheese and truffle oil, made a great start.
Other celebrated dishes included assaggio di maialino (duo of pork with mustard mashed potations, shallot puree and greens) and gnocchi alle noci. The gnocchi was so tender, tasty and rich and probably one of the best I’ve tried in town.
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