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September 23, 2018

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London Fashion Week wraps up

LONG-AWAITED debuts, sushi-themed hats and moms as models were the standout themes of London Fashion Week, which ended on Tuesday.

The British capital’s five-day showcase, dedicated to the spring-summer 2019 collections, also saw the anticipated trend-setting colors paraded in force.

This year’s Fashion Week saw notable debutants turning heads.

Italian designer Riccardo Tisci put his own twist on Burberry’s classic style as he presented his much anticipated first collection of streetwear and luxury fashion for the venerable British company.

Meanwhile Victoria Beckham celebrated a decade of her brand in a homecoming of sorts.

After years of exhibiting in New York, the former Spice Girl exchanged her trademark sulky pout for a radiant smile as she showcased her latest styles for the first time in London surrounded by her family.

Another newcomer: Alexa Chung, a Swiss Army knife of talents, who presented her first show inspired by travel.

The model/columnist/TV presenter showed off a practical and sober collection designed for wandering through transit lounges: tracksuit sets, floral wool vests, suede coats, front-zipped long dresses and shell necklaces.

Next summer’s hot colors are out of the bag.

Among them: mint green — billed a fresh and optimistic tone — perhaps best featured by Delpozo.

The Spanish fashion house, another defector from New York Fashion Week, exhibited an exquisite ethereal dress in the color, which evoked the wearer being draped in an assemblage of leaves.

Shades of purple — from mauve at Emilia Wickstead to lavender at Molly Goddard and Bora Aksu — were also on display.

Red and its iterations took on an edgier tone, with scarlet raincoats (Burberry), little cherry dresses (Julien Macdonald), long poppy dresses (Roksanda) and even blood-red jumpsuits (Gareth Pugh).

Blueberry blue also caught the eye in some of Burberry’s shirts and Beckham’s tops.

Activist-wear

Women will “take to the streets” in 2019 to defend their rights, according to French designer Roland Mouret — and he is banking on the need for practical and comfortable outfits.

Various designs in London centred on not feeling constricted.

From Delpozo to Roksanda, through Edeline Lee, Chalayan and Victoria Beckham, dresses, jackets and shirts were often long but flexible and unhindered, perhaps echoing the recent global mobilisations for women’s rights.

Some exceptions: David Koma and his tight-fitting little dresses, and Christopher Kane’s collection of curved and lace slim dresses.

Temperley London won acclaim for its collection — and not only for its dresses blending antique Rome prints with Native American culture.

Designer Alice Temperley had her own mother and girlfriends parade, including actresses Nathalie Emmanuel (Game of Thrones) and Helen McCrory (Harry Potter), foodie entrepreneur Jasmine Hemsley, singer Corinne Bailey Rae and pregnant model Arizona Muse.

The theme of motherhood was also evident at Marta Jakubowski, with the model Valeria Garcia — who recently gave birth to her second child — taking to the catwalk with a portable breast pump slipped under a black shirt.

Sushi enthusiasts behold: adventurous designer Matty Bovan served up models wearing hats comprising a plate of nigiris alongside various kitchen utensils.

Even more impressive were his floral headdress decorated with a giant poppy and hollyhocks climbing a good meter above the brow.

Nature also inspired Delpozo, with petal-flower hats, while J.W. Anderson gave his models a pirate look with leather bandannas.

Ryan Lo took a more fanciful tone with several bold witches hats, while Nicopanda featured little neon cowboy hats in a twist on traditional western wear.

At Burberry, a take on a sailor hat — black and shiny with a visor covering most of the forehead— was reminiscent of the helmet of Darth Vader. But designer Pam Hogg arguably stole the show by parading a collection of extravagant multicolored tulle hats over bright uniforms.




 

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