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September 16, 2018

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NY Fashion Week

NEW York Fashion Week never disappoints. And once again the best collections from the best designers showcased their wares to an eager public looking to get a nod toward the season’s new styles and trends.

Escada

Escada celebrated New York Fashion Week with the spirited horse that started it all 40 years ago.

The spring/summer extravaganza is the second collection for global design director Niall Sloan, who left the British brand Hunter to join Escada in August 2017. He was true to brand’s late 1980s, early 1990s heyday as he marked the company’s 40th year with modern twists in fabrics and loosened up silhouettes.

There was an outsized red dot print on the front of white, wide-cuffed jeans. Red jockey silk slacks bagged from the waist clear to the grass, paired with an equally oversized green-trimmed blue blouse.

Sloan has made the gold heart the new house emblem, based on an old Escada perfume bottle, but he was careful to splash the company’s actual name on a bright blocky rain slicker in bold greens, yellows and reds. Some platform comfy sneakers matched.

Taoray Wang

When Chinese designer Wang Tao debuted her new collection at New York Fashion Week, front-row celebrities cheered the designs showcasing her signature note of sophisticated minimalism.

Tiffany Trump, the US president’s younger daughter, was among the celebrities.

The way Wang incorporates sophistication and a feminine edge into her clothes “is absolutely amazing,” said the 24-year-old first daughter, who was wearing a Taoray Wang baby-blue dress with ruffles at the waist. Taoray Wang is Wang’s professional name.

“I have realized that this new generation’s women leaders are not afraid of standing out in a crowd,” Wang said. “And they can mix femininity with their serious career-oriented lifestyle.”

In her fall collection, titled “Bloom,” Wang used a bold palette of pinks and blues.

Badgley Mischka

Badgley Mischka celebrated 30 years in business with a New York Fashion Week ode to Alice in Wonderland.

As for the future, Mark Badgley and James Mischka said that glamor is where it all began and glamorous is where it’ll stay.

“Yeah, we do it all now, but there is a thread of glamor through sort of everything we do,” Badgley said.

“We do home now. Even our tea cups are glamorous, so as long as that is threaded through what we do, it works.”

You know what else works? Their partnership of 30 years.

“We are both Capricorns. We haven’t killed each other yet,” Badgley joked.

“Thirty years in this industry is a lifetime and it is amazing to have a partner, someone that you can trust, that shares your vision. I can’t imagine doing it any other way.”

The design duo’s trip through the looking glass included Alice in a floral mini-dress.

The collection featured beaded applique pantsuits and dresses, a slinky metallic gown with long sleeves and, for the first time, four “Mommy and Me” looks with little girls and models in similar styles.

Kate Spade

A rosy hue washed over a room at the New York Public Library as models wearing vibrant pinks, greens and blues followed a winding silver line of glitter on a pink carpet. The shimmering line was an homage to late designer Kate Spade at the New York Fashion Week show of her former brand.

Spade, the creator of iconic handbags that became popular for their bright, playful style, killed herself in June after suffering from depression. Though she and her husband, Andy Spade, had sold the company they co-founded, it still carries her name and wanted to honor its icon.

The new creative director Nicola Glass’ first collection is a modern twist on Spade classics with cheerful patterns of hearts, flowers and, of course, spades.

Knee-high boots in unexpected colors that included lavender and sunny yellow popped against silk dresses and high collared blouses.

Oscar de la Renta

Two years into their tenure at the helm of Oscar de la Renta, designers Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia continue to seek new ways to inject a more relaxed vibe into the label, while maintaining its famous craftsmanship.

The pair put on a rooftop runway show that felt like a sunny Mediterranean vacation. There were bold prints, lots of fringe, crocheted dresses and loose, comfy caftans taking their place among the elegant, structured gowns the label is best known for.

The two moods of the collection could perhaps best be sampled by looking at the show’s opening and closing garments.

It was kicked off with a fringed, sarong-like skirt with a tulip print and a white, one-armed top, and finished with a long, sheer black lace gown — also with one arm free — with delicate ruffles running up the leg.

Backstage after the high-profile show, which drew celebrities like Nicki Minaj, Kate Beckinsale and Dianna Agron, the designing duo had just a few words to describe what they were going for.

“More relaxed Oscar,” pronounced Garcia.

“Lighter,” noted Kim.

“Sexier,” added Garcia.

The two agreed that each season, they’ve experimented just a bit more with the aesthetic of the label’s legendary founder. This time, they thought about all the countries they’d traveled to for inspiration, and then actually made a print from a map of them, which appears on several garments.

Colors included a lot of neutrals, but also bold colors like bright canary yellow, and a new terra cotta red.

Tom Ford

Tom Ford’s spring/summer looks for all genders had the designer looking back on his long career to the simplest reason he got into the business in the first place: “I wanted to make men and women feel more beautiful and to empower them with a feeling of confidence,” he said. “I feel that fashion has somehow lost its way a bit. I did not want to make clothes that were ironic or clever, but simply clothes that were beautiful.”

Ford made use of flesh tones, warm whites, powder blue, blush pink and the palest lilac with touches of lace and chiffon. He offered the structure of hard leather and the sheen of fake crocodile for toughness.

For the men, tuxedo jackets came in metallics, a Ford signature. For the women, skirts hovered just below the knee, some being asymmetrical.

Marc Jacobs

In recent years, Marc Jacobs has become known for starting his runway show‚ which traditionally closes out Fashion Week‚ with military precision at 6pm, no matter who’s running late. It was a shock, then, when Jacobs kept his guests waiting for 90 long minutes, tapping their feet and staring at their phones.

What was the reason for the delay? Jacobs’ staff said the issue was a clothing delivery, no doubt caught in rush-hour traffic. Some fans of Rihanna had their own conspiracy theory: Some speculated on Twitter, he was getting back at the pop singer, who had scheduled a 7:30pm show in Brooklyn, thereby usurping his finale.

Whatever the reason, those who stayed put at Jacobs’ show in the spare, cavernous Park Avenue Armory seemed delighted they’d done so. They were treated to a happy injection of old-style glamour and charming excess, expressed in eye-catching pastels, 1960s-style bouffant hairstyles, and ruffles, ruffles and more ruffles.

After all that waiting, there was audible relief as the lights finally came down and the first model emerged, to a pulsing Philip Glass-like soundtrack, in a yellow-green slip dress and sparkling tights. The next look dramatically upped the brightness quotient: a huge, neon-yellow leather coat, with matching Jackie Kennedy-style kerchief over poufy hair.

Among those watching were Vogue editor Anna Wintour, filmmaker Sofia Coppola and rapper Nicki Minaj.




 

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