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September 30, 2018

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On Milan’s fashion runway

MILAN Fashion Week saw a cast of celebrity supermodels strut their stuff on the catwalk as the world’s biggest designers served up a sparkling show for a star-studded audience in one of Europe’s most stylish cities.

Nicki Minaj struts for Fendi

Nicki Minaj took a front row seat at Fendi, taking a turn for fans on her way in decked out in a Fendi puffer jacket, matching leggings and a cropped top.

Other front-row celebs included Italian fashion blogger Chiara Ferragni with her rapper husband Fedez, while the front-row celebrity attire was highly branded Fendi streetwear, the runway collection by Karl Lagerfeld was more elegant and subtle.

Fendi courted functionality with transparent PVC outerwear with leather details, while jackets, belts and handbags were equipped with external utility pockets. This Fendi woman is an urban dweller whose wardrobe needs to carry her through the day. The color palate was somber neutrals with flashes of orange and acid green and the branding was limited to subtle heat-stamped double-F logo impressions.

On the casual side, biker shorts were paired with a fur-intarsia bomber coat or a belted cream shirt.

Missoni’s futuristic celebration

Missoni treated the fashion crowd to a sweeping view of the new Milan skyline of skyscrapers by architects Zaha Hadid, Arata Isozaki and Daniel Libeskind to celebrate its 65th year.

Creative director Angela Missoni said she chose the terrace overlooking the City Life quarter and beneath Mario Bellini’s silvery sculpture “Comet,” because the view represented “the most futuristic place in Milan.”

“This place is a dream. This place summarizes the future,” she said.

The looks for men and women were delicate in tone, weight and structure.

For women, Angela Missoni constructed layered works, incorporating fresh detailing like tiered ruffles and braided overlays of yarn, for a playful touch. The men’s looks were relaxed and functional, including kimono tops, long T-shirts and cardigans.

Dolce & Gabbana’s star-studded cast

Dolce & Gabbana retraced their DNA by bringing back some of their most famous models: Carla Bruni in a brocade suit, Monica Belluci in a fitted polka-dot dress, Eva Herzigova in a frothy black chiffon number and a caped Isabel Rosselilni, who walked with her children Roberto and Elettra carrying her young son. In the brand’s bid for inclusion, they sent grandmothers with granddaughters, husbands and wives, lesbian couples and curvy models, including Ashley Graham.

Cardi B kept a careful eye on the collection from her front-row seat, taking off her animal skin-covered D&G sunglasses to take in the steady stream of flash.

Her eyes stayed glued on an embroidered shawl jacket with mini-skirt, mouthing, “I like that,” with a sassy shoulder shake.

The Domenico Dolce & Stefano Gabbana collection displayed the designers’ aptitude for over-the-top looks with a something-for-everyone range. The designers also hinted of an upcoming project for Milan and Rome: a Christmas market.

Armani’s nod to femininity

Giorgio Armani’s collection for next spring and summer was meticulously sculptured out of iridescent, dreamy blue, gray and pink textiles that collect the light. The main point of contrast, a bright fuchsia, which has become the power color of the season in Milan.

The looks had what the designer called “a liquid lightness,” derived from a range of understated colors — save for a touch of fuchsia.

“It is all mixed and very subtle in terms of colors. The color this time gave form to the clothes,” Armani said.

The silhouette was elongated, often with a layer of organza that wrapped the figure or was layered over trousers for a misty effect. A plexiglass bustier gave shape to a micro-pleated dress. Armani continued his mastery of the jacket with fluid jackets over straight trousers, or slim-fitting leather jackets and trousers with colorful water color prints, and blousons with a long layer of tulle spilling out.

“This is a woman who wants to be noticed,” the designer said. “She doesn’t slink away dressed as a man.”

Armani saluted the crowd wearing a jacket and tie instead of his usual dark blue T-shirt or sweater and said, “You didn’t recognize me, did you?”

(Agencies)




 

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