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January 19, 2020

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The Cut Meatery has recipe for fashionable eatery

By Patsy Yang | 00:00 UTC+8 January 19, 2020 | Print Edition

MARKETED as a casual canteen centered around meat, The Cut Meatery is a new dining spot for those who fancy flavorful dishes with a pink-colored interior.

The restaurant is situated inside the brand-new One ITC mall in Xujiahui area. It is the newest addition under VOL Group, who previously opened The Cut Steak & Fries on the 6th floor of iapm mall and The Cut Rooftop on the 7th floor. The new place retains the similar vibe of The Cut series — sleek, young and edgy.

The team expects The Cut Meatery to be the new local social and community canteen, for the young crowd, who will feel comfortable dining in fashionable surrounds, bathed in fiery reds and magenta, whilst listening to the latest beats and sipping on fizzy lemonade or craft beer.

The neon lighted space can accommodate 45 diners with a semi-open kitchen for curious diners. However, I was not completely convinced with the idea. The kitchen scene didn’t seem to be a plus for such a concept.

The restaurant name clearly indicates the meat-centric menu. The kitchen presents meats from the land, sea and soil, all braised, skewered or charcoal-grilled with herbs, spices and creative homemade sauces.

Served on wooden boards and metal bowls, dishes are presented in a straight-forward way without overly decorated garnish.

I started off with the drunken clams, infused with a brandy soy sauce, Sichuan pepper and calamansi. It might not appeal to those who prefer the original flavors of clams. With the amount of brandy soy sauce, I found it tasty.

“Meat from the sea” includes a range of dishes from raw to grilled favorites. I ordered a Japanese saury fish that is a staple in Japanese cuisine, traditionally enjoyed grilled with a dash of lemon. Here, they gave the fish a Mediterranean twist, stuffed with diced garlic, tomato, coriander, onion and North African harissa chili, for a slightly fiery finish.

I chose a charcoal-grilled Argentinean rib eye as the main course with chimichurri sauce. Chimichurri is traditionally used on grilled meat in South America yet I found the version here less tasty and didn’t give the extra kick for the steak. As a newly opened restaurant, surely it has to improve details.

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