Acquiring a taste for Riesling much appreciated
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WHETHER its music, paintings or gourmet foods, many of the world’s most exquisite experiences are not automatically or immediately appreciated.
Cultural, including culinary, concepts of attractiveness are frequently acquired over a period of time.
In the fields of food and wine, the concept of acquired taste is also intimately related to the ongoing development of your palate. Like many things in life, preferred tastes are not static and will develop and change over a period of time.
One exceptional variety of wine is a good example of acquired taste.
An oft misconstrued variety
The big three noble white wine varieties are Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Riesling.
Chardonnay is the most popular and recognized of the three. This grape makes several of the world’s greatest single variety whites from Burgundy, Napa and other prestigious Old and New World regions.
Chardonnay also plays a major role in the world’s two best sparkling wines, Champagne and Franciacorta. Sauvignon Blanc is used to make the classic Sancerre and Pouilly-Fume wines from the Loire Valley in central France as well as the hugely popular whites from Marlborough.
The variety also dominates the blends of Bordeaux’s greatest dry white wines.
Riesling is another story. Let’s face it, except in Germany and among serious and knowledgeable wines lovers this grape is grossly under-appreciated.
So, what’s the problem with this noble but oft misconstrued variety?
Riesling doesn’t react well to large-scale cultivation and winemaking, instead the best expressions of this variety are almost always hand-picked, low-yield wines made with scrupulous care in small quantities.
Also, good Rieslings are often not easy to find outside of their areas of production and seldom, if ever, cheap.
What the grape lacks in popularity is more than made up for by its history and intrinsic distinction and quality.
Wine historians and scientists are not sure where the grape originated. DNA tests suggest that the parents of modern-day Riesling are non-classified wild vines along with Traminer and the now quite obscure Gouais Blanc grape that was an important variety in France and Germany during the Middle Ages.
Riesling is one of the most terrior expressive varieties. In other words, the grape accurately expresses the precise place where it is grown.
The aromas, flavors and textures of Riesling wines vary greatly depending where and how they are made so it’s difficult to list the most typical qualities.
Nonetheless, we can say that many dry Rieslings exhibit citrus, apple, pear and mineral aromas and flavors with sweet versions also featuring notes of honey.
One rather peculiar aroma and flavor many young Rieslings offer is petrol. Reminiscent of kerosene or rubber, these qualities are highly appreciated by serious Riesling fans.
Nearly every wine region in Germany produces Riesling wines with the Rheingau region making some of the best. Rheingau accounts for only 3 percent of the total German vineyard planting area, but what the region lacks in size it more than makes up for in quality.
Located at a latitude of 50 degrees north, this cool continental climate region boarders the northern-most reaches of Europe’s wine belt.
Therefore, it’s little surprise that the Rieslings from this region have pronounced acidity and excellent intensity.
The renowned Mosel-Saar-Ruwer and Pfalz regions are also known for their exceptional Rieslings with Germany’s largest wine region the Rheinhessen also making some fine examples.
The most famous German Rieslings are sweet wines that are organized into levels of ascending ripeness from Kabinett, Spatlese, Auslese, Beerenauslese, Eiswein and Trockenbeerenauslese. The later three are among the greatest sweet wines in the world with their intense sweetness offset by solid acidic backbones.
Dry wines are referred to as Trocken. Recommended German producers of Rieslings include Robert Weil, Schloss Vollrads, Dr Loosen and Friedrich Fendel and Clemens Busch.
Across the Rhine River on the border with Germany, the French region of Alsace also makes great Rieslings. Most Alsatian Rieslings are dry wines but some lovely sweet wines are also produced.
The producers Hugel and Domaine Weinbach make delicious Rieslings that are available in Shanghai.
In Austria the grape is the second most planted variety after the indigenous Gruner Veltliner.
Austrian Rieslings tend to be substantial and heady wines that offer attractive pungent fruity aromas and spicy elements.
Exceptional Rieslings are also produced in the New World with wines from Oceania and Washington State standing out.
Regions to look for are Clare Valley and Eden Valley in Australia, Martinborough, Marlborough and Central Otago in New Zealand and the Columbia Valley, Yakima Valley and Horse Heaven Hills AVAs in Washington State.
The Rieslings of Washington State, in particular, are among the best in the New World and in fact the Chateau Ste Michelle Columbia Valley Riesling is the best-selling Riesling in the world.
Alas, the exceptionally successful tale of Washington State Rieslings must be saved for a future column.
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