Bangkok vendors: from Michelin star to eviction
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Fai, a 70-year-old street food seller in Bangkok known for her crab omelettes, won a Michelin star last year at the launch of the city鈥檚 first restaurant guide, and few locals were surprised.
鈥淎untie Fai鈥 is as renowned for the ski goggles she wears to protect her eyes from hot oil splashing, as she is for her thick crab curry and dry congee that customers, including many who drive up in luxury cars, swear by. But the afterglow from the global adulation was short-lived, as city officials soon resumed a drive to 鈥渞eturn the pavement to pedestrians鈥 evicting hundreds of vendors selling food, clothing and trinkets, for greater 鈥渙rder and hygiene.鈥
Earlier in September, hundreds of hawkers marched to city hall following a daytime ban on vending on the sidewalks of Khao San road, a favorite haunt of backpackers. What began as disparate protests by vendors facing marching orders has now morphed into an organized citywide movement that has also won support from academics and other public figures against the perceived heavy-handedness of officials.
鈥淪treet vending occupies an important space in Thai culture and history, helping to build community bonds, enabling women to work, innovating in Thai cuisine, and enriching families with no opportunity otherwise,鈥 said Chawadee Nualkhair, a food blogger.
鈥淪hepherding them into 鈥榗enters鈥 or eradicating them completely leaves a huge hole in the city鈥檚 ecosystem. This hole will inevitably be filled by big corporation like food companies and department stores.鈥
The crackdown on street vendors is part of a wider effort by Thailand鈥檚 military government, which came to power in a 2014 coup, to impose order in a city famous for its vibrant nightlife and cheap and varied street food.
Authorities are also removing shanties along the Chao Phraya River to build a promenade, and have forced out a community near an old fort to make way for a public park. Civic groups say the evictions mostly target poor residents who have little legal recourse, as they have no formal rights.
鈥淎 war is being waged against the city鈥檚 own people, the poorest and most vulnerable,鈥 said Poonsap Tulaphan, director of HomeNet Thailand, which supports informal workers.
鈥淢any of these vendors have been selling in the same spot for decades, and rely on their earnings to support themselves and their families. Without that, they have nothing.鈥
Across Asia, governments keen to modernize booming cities increasingly view street vendors as a hindrance, and as usurpers of public spaces meant for formal businesses and wealthy residents.
But hawkers enhance the business environment, make localities more dynamic and walkable, and help deter crime by being the 鈥渆yes and ears鈥 of the neighborhood, said Narumol Nirathron, a professor at Bangkok鈥檚 Thammasat University.
From Bangkok鈥檚 older floating markets to an estimated 240,000 street vendors today, they also contribute to a functioning food system with cheap meals and snacks, particularly for less well-to-do residents.
Narumol鈥檚 research showed that 87 percent of Bangkok鈥檚 residents buy food or other items from street vendors. Of the more than one-quarter of residents who buy from them every day, many earn less than 9,000 baht a month (US$275).
Of the vendors themselves, more than 70 percent are women, and more than two-thirds are over the age of 40 and have little education, making them particularly vulnerable.
The recent crackdown has hit them hard: Licensed vendors are down by thousands, and tens of thousands more may be banned in 683 spots in the city, said Rewat Chobtham, president of the Network of Thai Vendors for Sustainable Development.
鈥淭his is the most devastating policy of the government,鈥 he said. 鈥淭he cancellation of licences and evictions have resulted in vendors losing their life savings, pulling their children out of school, and losing assets such as homes and vehicles.鈥
They are not alone.
Street vendors are facing animosity everywhere, as officials try to make their cities look like those in the United States or Europe, said Sarah Reed of Women in Informal Employment: Globalizing and Organizing, an advocacy group.
鈥淟et鈥檚 call it what it is: elitism and corporate gentrification,鈥 Reed said. 鈥淭his is particularly misguided given that many of the cities they seek to emulate are now striving to attract vendors and street markets to create the kind of street life that Southeast Asian cities like Bangkok have in abundance.鈥
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