Crisp whites a cracking good match with eggs
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LONG before recorded history, pre-humanoid creatures robbed the nests of wild birds searching for protein rich eggs. Then sometime around 8,000 years ago some clever people in China first domesticated the chicken and even since then eggs have been an important part of the human diet. Today’s iDeal section celebrates the diverse offering of Chinese style eggs including the pungent pidan.
This egg creations is tasty and nutritious, but it's not the easiest of foods to pair with wines. The yolk in eggs can also cause trouble by coating the palate and emphasizing astringent tannins. It’s a good idea to avoid tannic reds. The single most important factor in successfully pairing Chinese style eggs with wines is freshness. One eminently qualified wine partner comes from the heart of France.
The majestic Loire River is France’s longest river curving through the center of the nation. The eastern portion of the river is surrounded by picturesque rolling hillside vineyards that make some of France’s best wines. The Romans first made wines here in ancient times, and during the Middle Ages Catholic monks tended the vines and made wines for the sacrament. Historically the Pinot Noir and Gamay grapes were cultivated to make red wines. The dominating presence of the Duchy of Burgundy overshadowed the smaller regions in the eastern Loire Valley and the wines, while quite good, were never as highly regarded as those from Burgundy.
Things changed in the late 19th century when the phylloxera epidemic devastated the vines of the Loire Valley and the rest of France. Most regional growers replanted with the Bordeaux white variety Sauvignon Blanc because it was easier to graft to the disease-resistant American rootstock. This accident of misfortune and convenience resulted in a new style of wine. The cool local climate and special limestone soils were ideal for Sauvignon Blanc vines and resulted in aromatic and elegant wines with excellent acidity.
The most important white wines of the Loire Valley are made from vineyards surrounding the two villages of the Sancerre and Pouilly-Fume. Over the past century Sancerre and Pouilly-Fume have intensely competed for the title of being home to the world’s greatest single variety Sauvignon Blanc wines. It’s fair to say Sancerre has had the upper hand recently, but the wines of Pouilly-Fume have their own claim to fame. Both styles of whites are renowned for their aromatics and solid acidity but it’s the smoky nature of Pouilly-Fume whites that distinguishes them and makes them good companions to Chinese style eggs.
Fumé in French means smoke and pertinent to the wine name it refers to a special smoky bouquet. Wine lovers also sometimes describe this aroma as resembling gun flint and it’s considered an important distinguishing factor for all quality Pouilly-Fume wines. Wines that lack these aromas are considered inferior. Other aromas and flavors also commonly found in these wines are citrus fruit, lemon grass, green grass, minerals and white flowers that are always balanced by a bracing acidity.
Most producers in Pouilly-Fume use little or no oak. This judicious use of oak is meant to preserve the pure uninhibited fresh fruitiness of the Sauvignon Blanc variety.
We call these producers the traditionalists. But there also exists a school referred to as “new wave producers” who ferment and age in small oak. Their goal is to make complex and age-worthy white wines like the Grand Cru white of Cote de Beaune in Burgundy. I’ve tasted some of these new wave Pouilly-Fume wines and while they are excellent wines, when enjoying Chinese style eggs I suggest the lighter and fresher traditional style of Pouilly-Fume wines. These classically dry and stylishly lean wines are very food friendly and will bring out the best qualities of your Chinese eggs whether enjoyed by themselves or in dishes.
Several of the most famous Pouilly-Fume producers also make Sancerre wines and its fun to compare them in side-by-side tastings. Recommended producers with wines you can find in Shanghai include Didier Daguerneau, Joseph Mellot, Henri Bourgeois and Pascal Jolivet. If there’s a downside to both Pouilly-Fume and Sancerre wines it's that they’re somewhat pricey. I don’t mind paying a little more because they are stylishly unique and undeniably delicious. The healthy dose of acidity in all good Pouilly-Fume wines means they should be served well chilled or about 8 Celsius.
Where to buy in Shanghai
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