Dutch community raises a glass to urban vines
Print Edition
As a high-speed train rattled past, amateur Dutch winemakers were busy gathering the last of the season鈥檚 grapes under a warm autumn sun in the heart of The Hague.
Wine is not usually associated with The Netherlands, more known globally for its tulips, clogs and cheese. But a community project has taken off thanks to the passion of one winemaker, Tycho Vermeulen.
Standing among rows of vines hung with slightly bitter, citrusy Johanniter, he proudly recounted the growing success of his 鈥淒e Haagse Stadswijngaard鈥 (or The Hague Urban Vineyard), which started four years ago in a community garden.
The project brings together amateur growers and local residents for workshops, debates and evenings sipping and tasting the fruits of their labour.
Today there are 650 plants on the 0.1 hectare (quarter acre) of land tended throughout the year by about 40 enthusiasts. Each rent about 10 vines, and receive their share of the wine and leaves.
鈥淚鈥檝e developed this concept (where) people can use their own bit of land and we鈥檝e become a corporation so more people can enjoy and (build) fellowship around this vineyard,鈥 Vermeulen explained. 鈥淚 give them a course in vine growing and together throughout the year we manage this vineyard and they are responsible for their own 10 plants.鈥
Bountiful harvest
While the city has plenty of green spaces, it is more known for the vast, wind-swept beaches and the imposing international courts and institutions.
This year鈥檚 harvest looks promising, and should allow the cooperative to produce more wine than in 2016, with around 600 liters to delight the tastebuds.
It will include a slightly fruity white from the Johanniter grape, a robust red with tannins from the dark-skinned Rondo variety, and a full-bodied rose from the Souvignier gris.
鈥淏oth quantity and quality are good, so I am a very happy winemaker at the moment,鈥 said the smiling 42-year-old Vermeulen, formerly a researcher at Wageningen University, which specialises in healthy food and living environment.
The vineyard鈥檚 success is credited to being in the heart of the city where temperatures are always a little higher than the countryside, as well as the choice of weather-resistant grape varieties.
The amateur vintners also show a passion for the plant. And it鈥檚 a subject of conversation for them, most of whom have Turkish roots. Thus was born a workshop on preparing sarmas, vine leaves stuffed with mincemeat or rice.
The community has historic ties to grape growing, 鈥渨ith the leaves for the sarmas. Those types of things can connect us,鈥 added Vermeulen. 鈥淪o we are looking for ways to use that to reach out to this community.鈥
Standing in his yellow rubber boots, a pair of secateurs in his hand, Pieter Bakens said the vineyard was a great way to meet other wine enthusiasts and a 鈥渂eautiful multicultural project.鈥
Even though grape growing is relatively new to The Netherlands, it has already begun to make its mark. According to the national statistics bureau, some 90 growers have planted about 160 hectares (just over 395 acres) with vines. But for Vermeulen, his project is not about making profits.
鈥淲hat we bring to this city, is an interesting story. We bring it attention, we give it beauty,鈥 he said.鈥淎nd we hope to deepen the concept.鈥
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