Many faces of vigorous Chardonnay
Print Edition
Chardonnay is probably the world’s most versatile white grape variety and one filled with contrasts.
It honestly reflects terroir so that the wine from various regions in diverse climates tastes different. On the other hand, the wine made from Chardonnay is widely seen as a product in the cellar rather than in the vineyard.
The grape is so vigorous that it can grow in regions ranging from cold to moderate to warm. In cool climates, for example, the Chablis area in north Burgundy, the wine is light, fresh and dry, showing notes of apple and pear, and occasionally vegetable.
In moderate-climate regions, such as Hawke’s Bay, New Zealand, Chardonnay wine features citrus notes and hints of lemon. Chardonnay from warm regions such as California has pronounced tropical fruit aromas such as mango, pineapple and peach.
The variety also is distinguished by its strong expression of oak and yeast-derived flavors from winemaking.
Many Chardonnays have obvious dairy flavors of butter and cream, which come from malolactic fermentation (a wine technique that softens harsh acid).
Oak treatment produces aromas such as toast, vanilla, hazelnut and coconut, together with a weighty texture.
Some New World wine producers also uses oak chips to reduce the cost but this diminishes the wine’s charm and its fruitiness is easily overpowered by the oak.
Burgundy is generally regarded as the home of Chardonnay, also the place where the finest and most elegant styles are produced. Chablis usually produces Chardonnay that is high in acidity, with recognizable green fruit aromas and mineral notes due to limestone soil.
Both Meursault and Puligny-Montrachet usually ferment Chardonnay in small oak barrels and age them in contact with the yeast, resulting in full-bodied complex wines with citrus and savory notes.
Montrachet white is generally considered the finest and most expensive dry white wine. Maconnais at the southern end is comparatively warmer, producing wine with tropical fruit and oak flavors. Chardonnay is also widely grown in the Champagne region to make vibrant sparkling wine.
Chardonnay tends to be synonymous with white wine in warm California. Local wines have diverse styles, from heavily oaked, full bodied, with rich intense tropical fruit notes to savory, lean and crispy.
Some cool areas in Australia and New Zealand are also known for producing premium Chardonnay. Notable growing areas are Yarra Valley, Adelaide Hills and Margaret River in Australia and Hawke’s Bay, Gisborne and Marlborough in New Zealand.
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