New Belgian cafe pairs classic beers, dishes
Print Edition
THERE’S no need to head to Belgium, given that people can enjoy good Belgian food in the heart of the city.
The newly opened Belgian Beer Café at Jing’an Kerry Center is a place for authentic Belgian beer and food.
“Beer is a Belgian icon in the same way tea is in China, and Belgian beer is widely considered to be among the world’s finest in terms of taste and quality,” says Cathy Buggenhout, consul general of Belgium in Shanghai. “I’m excited to taste the classic Belgian beer paired with the authentic Belgian cuisine in Shanghai. This (Belgian Beer Café) offers me a taste of home.”
Belgian Beer Café was developed by AB InBev in 1998. It is a chain of concept cafes and restaurants found in 50 cities spread over 19 countries.
“Traditionally, the café was the central meeting point for the local community in towns and villages across Belgium,” says Jeroen Demuydt, global executive chef of Belgian Beer Café. “Here in Shanghai, we reflect this atmosphere.”
Every café is different in terms of decor and detail, but each reflects the same atmosphere and ambience. The two-story Shanghai café features photos and decorations imported from Belgium, sometimes telling little-known stories.
For example, a tradition is to put a clock with its hands stopped at 11:55pm in cafés because Belgian cafes and brasseries must close at midnight. So the café owners stick a nail in their clocks, suggesting closing time should never come. There is no TV in the café, based on the idea that customers prefer to enjoy beer and food without distraction.
“We offer set lunches, afternoon tea and dinner in a local Belgian design,” says the executive chef.
Customers can enjoy 20 kinds of Belgian beers such as Stella Artois, Hoegaarden or Leffe. The menu will be set to change according to season but some traditional Belgian foods will remain permanent fixtures, including mussels (the national dish), fries and Flemish beef.
Every Belgian beer has its own special, branded glass in a shape that enhances each beer’s characteristics. The Leffe glass is wide, resembling a goblet used in ancient abbeys. The Hoegaarden glass is tubular so the head protects the beer from too much interaction with the surrounding air.
According to Demuydt, there is a pouring ritual to follow.
“Before a beer is poured, the glass must be properly cleaned. The position of the tap or bottle during pouring is very important — it must not touch the beer, the head or the glass,” he says.
“The size of the head should be no more than two fingers, and the glass should be carefully re-dipped in cold water to restore the proper drinking temperature. The shape of the glass is also critical. Only the right shape will release the beer’s multi-textured aromas,” he adds.
Demuydt has been global executive chef since 2012, after years of cooking experience in other countries.
“I returned to Belgium because I’m an avid fan of Belgian food and beer culture,” he says. “I’m very proud of working for Belgian Beer Café as I can pair two things I love the most — beer and food. I’m passionate to promote this unique food pairing experience to people in Shanghai.”
Address: E1-09 East Block, Jing’an Kerry Center, 1515 Nanjing Rd W.
Tel: 6259-0299
Beer & food
Belgium is known for its unique cuisine, influenced by different cultures.
Recently, top chefs have been reinstating the gastronomic value of beer at the dinner table. The number of ingredients and the types of herbs used to brew a beer adds to its simplicity or complexity, just as a cook can increase the complexity of dishes by mixing different ingredients. This makes beer a perfect companion for many dishes and shows its versatility.
Ghentse waterzooi
Waterzooi was first eaten in the Middle Ages in the city of Ghent and refers to the word “zode” (mixed water).
Every city was protected by water channels, and poor people were always looking for a cheap way to prepare their food. They started using fish from the channels, adding vegetables, potatoes and boiled it all in water.
Because the demand was bigger than the supply of fish, people started replacing fish with chicken to prepare waterzooi. Today chicken is still used, enriched with cut vegetables, cream and saffron.
The bitter and sweet flavor of Leffe Blonde pairs perfectly with light chicken and cream sauce.
Flemish beef stew
This dish traces its origin to the days when farmers sold the best parts of the cows and kept the low-quality parts for themselves. They prepared the beef with bread, mustard and beer early in the morning before milking the cows so it could rest for hours.
Today this typical Flemish dish includes quality tenderloin beef, Leffe Brune, mustard and bread. It is slow-cooked and simmered down to a rich sauce. Flemish beef stew is traditionally served with crispy Belgian fries and handmade mayonnaise.
The roasted caramel flavor of Leffe Brune pairs well with the rich flavors of the Flemish stew.
Belgian mussels
A dish the whole world knows. The mussels are cooked in the typical mussel pot, designed to shake up the mussels during preparation.
When served, the top shell is used to throw away the empty shells. The dish is traditionally prepared with small cut vegetables, beer, pepper, salt, nutmeg and butter.
Mussels pair with Hoegaarden because the lemon flavor enhances the flavor of the mussels.
Other beef bars & restaurants in the city
• Paulaner
Address: 2967 Lujiazui Rd W., Pudong
Tel: 6888-3935, 6320-3935
• Dr Beer
Address: 83 Fumin Rd
Tel: 5468-1077
• Brotzeit German Bier Bar & Restaurant
Address: 288 Shaanxi Rd N.
Tel: 6032-8907
• De Refter
Address: 181 Jinxian Rd
Tel: 3230-2595
• Boxing Cat Brewery
Address: 519 Fuxing Rd M.
Tel: 6426-0360
• Big Bamboo
Address: 132 Nanyang Rd
Tel: 6256-2265
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