PuLi鈥檚 PH脡NIX a restaurant on the rise
Print Edition
THE PuLi Hotel and Spa near Shanghai’s Jing’an Temple recently opened PHÉNIX Eatery & Bar, an impressive new establishment featuring French cuisine by executive chef Michael Wilson as well as an extensive collection of classic cocktails and French wine.
PHÉNIX has a refined yet casual ambience suitable for both fine-dining or a laid-back rendezvous. I especially liked the sofas in the middle of the restaurant, where one can enjoy a cocktail before the meal or wait for friends without the awkwardness of sitting alone at the table.
The one-page a la carte menu is simple and smart. From the classic foie gras appetizer to slow cooked Merino lamb shoulder, the dishes reflect the priority Wilson places on top-quality ingredients.
The foie gras au torchon (100 yuan/$US15.50) was paired with spiced apple and celery, a lighter combination that goes well with the hot, fresh brioche bread. I also ordered the more rustic dish pâté de campagne (70 yuan) and found it pleasantly lacking in grease.
Among the mains, my personal favorite was the braised ox stripe and cuttlefish with tomato and persillade (140 yuan). This southern-France influenced dish was served pipping hot in an enamel dish for a no-frills presentation. The ox stripe and cuttlefish was well-cooked, easy to eat and full of flavor.
The Hereford beef short rib with Bourguignon jus, horseradish spinach and oyster puree (310 yuan) was also a nice main dish for a group of three to share. The baked gnocchi with Raclette cheese and black Yunnan truffle (95 yuan) was also rich and flavorful, although a little on the salty side.
The biggest surprise at PHÉNIX though came with dessert. The menu features only five sweet items, but these are not your average cakes and gelatos.
One must-try is the strawberry dessert (95 yuan), crafted with compressed strawberries, strawberry granite, yoghurt Chantilly, basil cake bites and topped with fresh mint leaves. When enjoyed along with a glass of chilled 1749 Rosé d’Anjou, this guilt-free dessert served in a shallow dish was as refreshing as a spring breeze. Wilson revealed that the basil cake was actually cooked in a microwave instead of the oven to keep the green color.
For drinks, I didn’t try any cocktails this time, but Edouard Boutin, the restaurant manager and a native of France, has put considerable thought into pairing the dishes with different wines and spirits.
Overall PHÉNIX offered an excellent dining experience, with great food and considerate service in one of Shanghai’s leading hospitality establishments. The Australian-born chef Wilson came to The PuLi Hotel and Spa in 2012, and has previously worked at the acclaimed Cutler and Co and Grossi Florentino in Melbourne.
Average per person: about 500 yuan for food. Food with wine pairing could put you at around 900 yuan.
PHÉNIX
Tel: 3203-9999
Address: 1 Changde Rd
Opening hours: Breakfast: 6:30–10:30am
Lunch: noon–2:30pm
Afternoon Tea: 2:30–5:30pm
Dinner: 6–10pm
Bar: 5-1am
Average per person: 500 yuan
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