MANY foreigners know hot Sichuan cuisine with numbing pepper, but lesser known is another spicy option, Hunan cuisine that's growing in popularity. Sophie Turton finds three hot spots.

Hunan cuisine, sometimes known as xiang cai (xiang is the other name for Hunan), is one of the eight regional cuisines of China. Characterized by its liberal use of chili pepper, garlic and shallots, Hunan cuisine is known for being dry-hot, as distinct from the numbing-hot flavors of Sichuan cuisine, with which it is often compared.

The dry heat of Hunan food is distinct to the region and is thought to aid the body's cooling process during the hot and humid summers by opening the pores and encouraging steady blood circulation.

Due to the high agricultural output of the region, ingredients for Hunan dishes are many and varied and Hunan food generally contains more fresh ingredients than other Chinese cuisines. Another distinguishing feature of xiang cai is that, in general, it frequently uses smoked and cured meats in its dishes, which provide a distinctive flavor.

Although a lesser-known cuisine compared with Sichuan food, xiang cai is growing in popularity and there are several Hunan restaurants that have recently opened in and around Shanghai.

Shanghai Daily explores the up-and-coming Hunan cuisine scene in search of three of the more authentic xiang dining options.

Spicy Moment 湖南餐厅

Cuisine: Featuring a relatively small menu, Spicy Moment focuses more on the traditional Hunan options, such as bull frog hotpot and sugared sweet potato fries. All the meals on offer reflect the Hunan passion for spice and deviate from the more mainstream Chinese dining options.

Ambience: Set in a beautiful space, which utilizes spot lighting and a simple Japanese-style design, Spicy Moment does not immediately strike one as being a particularly authentic Hunan eatery. The photographs on the wall remind more of avant-garde New York than southern China. The sophisticated style of the restaurant arouse fears of an expensive dinner. However, each dish is reasonably priced and the quality of produce is to a high standard.

Who to invite: Friends, family or business associates. Spicy Moment's impressive interior allows for a more up-market eating experience, while the basic Hunan cuisine evokes images of traditional family dining.

Pros: The price is very reasonable and the service is particularly good. Additionally, there is outdoor seating for the warmer months.

Cons: The menu is relatively limited and the dishes are somewhat lacking in flavor.

Recommended: The vegetables pickled in chilli and wrapped in fresh lettuce are light and fresh, a particularly delicious start to the meal; the accompanying peanut and sesame sauce is also wonderful.

Don't order: The bullfrog hotpot was overwhelmingly spicy, which effectively eradicated any other flavors. While this is a popular Hunan dish, the texture of the bullfrogs wasn't to our taste.

Drinks: The wine menu is extensive and reasonably priced.

Cost: 150 yuan for three, including appetizers and several soft drinks.

Address: 71 Wuyuan Rd, near Changshu Rd

Tel: 5403-0775

Hunan House 湖南里弄家常菜馆

Cuisine: Hunan House has an extensive menu, featuring traditional meals from across the whole province. The restaurant also offers a chef's seasonal recommendations menu, which changes regularly depending on the freshness and quality of the produce on offer. The majority of the meats, particularly the smoked meats, are brought in from Hunan; this is due to the view that the taste of the meat differs depending on where the animal has been raised.

Ambience: The three-story establishment is decorated in a simple style, using a white-and-red color scheme that provides a sophisticated yet relaxed environment. The beautiful winding staircase is thought to look like a phoenix, which is the name of an ancient town on the western border of Hunan.

Who to invite: Anyone and everyone, this is a restaurant to suit all tastes. There are also three private rooms for a dinner party with friends, family or work colleagues.

Pros: This is a truly authentic culinary experience. The home-style menu was designed by the owner's mother, who grew up in Yiyang in the northern part of the province.

Recommended: The traditional hotpot with smoky pork, mushrooms, bean curd and lettuce is a particular favorite. The liberal use of chilli in the dish served to accent, rather than overpower, the unusual flavors combinations.

Don't order: The Chairman Mao pork is a little too fatty for some.

Drinks: There is a wide selection of wines, beers and cocktails, as well as the standard soft drink options.

Cost: An average meal is between 150 yuan (US$23.88) and 200 yuan per person, including appetizers, sides and a drink.

Address: Bldg 2, 49 Fuxing Rd W.

Tel: 3461-1377

South Memory 望湘园

Cuisine: The main menu is extensive and offers a wide variety of traditional Hunan and more mainstream Chinese options. Additionally, there is a smaller menu for those who would prefer their meal without excessive spice.

Ambience: It is set on the top floor of a large shopping center, however, once inside, one gets the feeling of being somewhere pretty upmarket and very Chinese. The space is large and the decor appears to be trying very hard to be sophisticated, an aim it doesn't quite manage to achieve. The outer wall is a huge window, affording lovely views of Nanjing Road E, which are particularly impressive at night.

Who to invite: Friends and family.

Pros: The food is to a very good standard.

Cons: The waiting staff are slightly too officious, which can be off putting, especially for foreigners.

Recommended: Steamed scallops with vermicelli accompanied by sautéed eggplant and green beans. The scallops were cooked to perfection and had the perfect amount of garlic, while the eggplant is a winner in every Chinese cuisine, especially when dried chilli is added to the recipe.

Don't order: Quickly fried mini river shrimp, the shrimp were too small and so quite dry and difficult to peel.

Drinks: Wide selection of soft drinks and teas; a small selection of local and imported wines.

Cost: 100-150 yuan per person, including drinks.

Address: 6/F, 299 Nanjing Rd E.

Tel: 6360-2797