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Sicily's flavorful wines

HOMER'S "Odyssey" praised Sicilian wines, but for many years they were considered over-ripe, too high in alcohol and lacking in elegance. The problem was never the grapes. Modern wine making technology and a focus on quality have helped make Sicilian wines among Italy's most exciting and affordable.

Except for Insolia, Catarrato and Ansonica white wines that are lighter and can be enjoyed alone, most Sicilian wines are so robust that they benefit from pairing with heavy foods.

They go well with flavorful herb-roasted seafood and meats as they accentuate the herbs and distinguish natural flavors.

For heavily flavored Chinese cuisine, Chardonnays go well with braised fish or crab with rich sauces, while the Nero d'Avola and Syrah reds are terrific with savory Jiangzhe stewed meats.

Some of the main varieties: Nero d'Avola grape makes deeply colored, robust red wines and the Insolia, Catarrato and Ansonica grapes make fine, light whites. Two non-native grapes are Chardonnay for deep-golden, full-bodied white wines and Syrah for enticing heavy-weight, fruity reds.

Selecting the right producer is key. Here are some top producers and wines available in Shanghai.

In the 1990s, Planeta rose to stardom. The La Segreta Bianco IGT 2007 is a charming white and the balanced Chardonnay Sicilia IGT is perhaps the best Sicilian white.

The La Segreta Rosso IGT packs a lot of value for the money while the Santa Cecilia Nero d'Avola IGT and Syrah IGT reds combine power, elegance and length.

Another great name is Donnafugata. I highly recommend the Anthilia Sicilia IGT, an elegant white from local varieties offering yellow fruit and floral aromas and flavors, and the reds Sedara Sicilia IGT, a medium body, fruity-spicy wine, and the Tancredi Contessa Entellina DOC, a deeply colored wine aged over two years in French oak, offering an intriguing combination of dark fruit, mint and exotic spices.

For the budget-conscious, there are deliciously ripe and concentrated wines from Cusumano. Their Nero d'Avola IGT offers excellent balance between black fruit and fine tannins, while the fruitier Merlot IGT and Syrah IGT have lusciously smooth textures.

A great value in reds is the Vinea-Messapicus Nero D'Avola IGT 2005, offering plenty of ripe fruit, earthy flavors and soft spicy finish.




 

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