Star chef Alvin goes 鈥榅-treme Chinese鈥
Print Edition
CELEBRITY chef Alvin Leung, who made his name in Hong Kong with his three-Michelin-starred Bo Innovation, has brought his “X-treme Chinese cuisine” to Shanghai, behind his other venue Daimon Bistro.
Daimon Bistro says it provides creative food emphasizing flavor without pretension.
Hidden behind the bistro and walking through the sliding door, you enter Bo Shanghai: Leung’s chef’s table concept for Shanghai where he modernizes and reinterprets centuries-old traditional Chinese regional dishes and recipes.
The intimate space is sleek and modern without being pretentious.
When most dining venues on the Bund emphasize the view, Bo Shanghai expects its guests look inside, towards the open kitchen where the chefs work their magic.
The bar table facing the kitchen is a unique gastronimic journey. And Bo Shanghai also has private dining rooms.
Alvin Leung describes his food as “X-treme Chinese” using molecular gastronomy, inspired by everyday Chinese dishes.
Unlike his Bo Innovation where the inspiration comes mainly from Hong Kong, his Bo Shanghai menu is inspired by the traditional eight silos of Chinese cuisine.
But Leung’s very personal touch is still evident and the tasting menu is constantly evolving.
On Shanghai Daily’s recent visit, Bo Shanghai had just launched its new tasting menu: 12 courses for 1,680 yuan (US$250) plus 10 percent service.
Wine pairing costs an extra 650 yuan for three glasses or 850 yuan for five.
There is a short 1,080 yuan menu after 8:30pm.
Appetizers change for each menu. But Leung’s signature molecular xiaolongbao is constant. Delicate pork broth encapsulates spherification.
Resembling an egg yolk, the flavor is the essence of xiaolongbao, minus the meat and flour.
Another amuse bouche resembles the taste of French onion soup. It is made of kaofu, grilled cheese, onion and red wine gel.
Following the amuse bouche, each course is inspired by the Eight Cuisines.
The first dish brought me to the province of Hunan, famous for its steamed chili fish head.
The chef says he took inspiration from the region’s signature dish and presented it with raw kinmedai, watercress puree, coriander oil, fermented chili, and red chili powder.
The next course, inspired by the typical street food oyster omelet from Fujian Province, the “Fujian-Huitre,” hit the right notes using duck egg, caviar, lime, a dash of fish sauce and hollandaise. The generous one bite was a real delight.
Another favorite was Sichuan-Foie du Canard. Fresh Sichuan peppercorn powder on top of the duck foie reduced the fatty texture while the duck gizzard cooked in duck fat for three hours submerged in chili sesame oil on the side gives another layer of texture and taste. The lavender gel, when mixed with foie and duck gizzard, tasted magical.
Service is as flawless as the gastronomic journey.
bo shanghai
Opening hours: 6pm-11pm (Tuesday closed)
Average price: 1,900 yuan
Address: 6/F, No. 5 Zhongshan Road E1
Tel: 5832-3656 (booking three days in advance is required)
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