The challenge of pairing Korean food with wine
Print Edition
Matching Asian cooking with wines can be a challenge. Korean cuisine is a perfect example. Just like Sichuan, Hunan, Thai, Indian and other spicy and full-flavored Asian cuisines, Korean cooking often overwhelms many styles of wines. Narrow-minded wine naysayers may claim that pairing wine with Korean mainstays like kimchi and ginseng chicken soup is impossible. They are wrong.
While a precious few perfect food and wine combinations do exist — think goose liver and Sauternes, slow cooked meat stews with Amarone sauce served with an Amarone wine or steak and a top Right Bank Bordeaux — most food and wine combinations are less than perfect. So it’s neither necessary nor practical to pursue perfection when pairing Korean food with wine. The key to success is to focus on the main dish.
The grilling of meats in Korea dates back to the ancient Maek people who migrated from Central Asia to Northeast Asia and the Korean peninsula. Unlike ancient Han people in China, who mostly seasoned their meat dishes during or after cooking, Maek cooks would marinate or season their meats before grilling. As the giant, outdoors bonfire grills gradually morphed into the in-table grills of modern Korean restaurants, the big chucks of ancient BBQs evolved into the more delicate thin sliced meats of today. Beef is the most important meat but pork, innards, fowl and vegetables may also be grilled. Enjoyed collectively, these flavorful marinated and spiced meats are natural red wine partners. The southern French region of Languedoc offers a host of reds to embellish your Korean BBQ experience.
Located in the Midi region in the south of France, Languedoc is making some of the world’s best low-priced wines. This area encompasses the scenic Pays d’Oc area that boarders the Mediterranean Sea. The most important traditional red wine grapes are the Syrah, Grenache, Mourvendre, Carignan and Cinsault, while increasing elegant whites are being made from the Viognier, Marsanne, Roussanne and Vermentino varieties. The creative winemakers of Languedoc are also experiencing success with varieties from other regions of France like Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon.
Unlike more traditional French regions, many Languedoc winemakers have adapted the practice of putting the names of the grapes on the label, which makes things easier for the consumer. The abundant sunshine in this southern French region also helps ripen the grapes while the evening breezes from the Mediterranean Sea cool the vines, which helps add complexity. The rolling hillsides of Languedoc are filled with wild herbs and flowers that also contribute special flavors to the wines. All these factors help make Languedoc wines distinctive, affordable and fun.
Languedoc reds are wonderful matches with BBQ meats. One good example is the Les Jamelles Merlot with grapes predominantly sourced from the Pays d’Oc area. The slightly bitter cherry, black current and spicy notes of the wine pair beautifully with the piquant qualities of Korean BBQ meats. Likewise, the region’s aromatic fruity and floral Viognier, Vermentino and Sauvignon Blanc whites are particularly good with Korean seafood and white meat dishes.
Now let’s tackle the trouble child of wine pairing, kimchi.
Peoples of the Korean peninsula have a long history of salting and fermenting vegetables. Zymology or the science of fermenting foods and drinks most likely predates the Three Kingdoms Period (AD 57 — 668). By the 16th century in the mid Joseon Dynasty, over 95 types of kimchi were documented. But the fiery red kimchi that’s immensely popular today only appeared in the 19th century when chilis that are native to Central America were introduced by European traders.
In modern Korea, kimchi is much more than just Napa cabbage. There are hundreds of variations made from a vast array of vegetables including radish, cucumber, bean sprouts, spinach, seaweed, lotus root and mushrooms, to name just a few. Modern science has also taught us that, in addition to being delicious, kimchi is healthy. It contains bacteria lactobacilli, a powerful digestive aid, as well as vitamins A, B1, B2, calcium and iron. However, as integral as kimchi is to a Korean meal, it doesn’t stand alone and herein lies an important secret to successful Korean food and wine pairing.
Kimchi is often served as a side dish to BBQ meats or other main dishes. In these cases it’s best to focus on the major component of the meal. In BBQ meal it’s the meat, so go ahead, serve a red and practice the technique of alternate eating and drinking. In essence, the mouthful of meat reboots your palate from the spicy and sour sensations of the kimchi and readies it for the red wine. However, if you’re a kimchi fanatic and your table is dominated by zesty and pungent kimchi dishes, then its best to stick with a fairly intense dry white wine, or even better a dry Fino or Manzanilla Sherry. These fresh fortified wines stand up to even the most spicy and heavily flavored kimchi and they are also one of the few wines that pair nicely with the popular ginseng chicken soup.
Where to buy in Shanghai
Links Concept Shanghai (369 Xianxia Rd, 6124-2799)
Les Jamelles Vin Pays d’Oc Merlot
Les Jamelles Vin Pays d’Oc Syrah
Les Jamelles Vin Pays d’Oc Sauvignon Blanc
Everwines (200 Taizhou Rd, 3208-0293)
Baron Philippe de Rothschild Languedoc Merlot
Baron Philippe de Rothschild Languedoc Viognier
Fancy Cellar (622 Shunchang Rd, 400-098-1219)
Sainte Eulalie Cru de Languedoc (Carignan, Grenache, Syrah)
Sainte Eulaie Languedoc Sauvignon Blanc
Domaine Ventenac Cuveee de Stephane (Merlot)
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