TAIWAN is famous for its night markets and street food found in every city. Street food has evolved to become a tradition and a representative of Taiwanese food culture, and it encompasses the best of what Taiwanese food has to offer.

In the old agrarian society, farmers periodically gathered in villages to form markets for product. As markets became bigger and more important for rural communities, they came to offer everything from daily necessities to entertainment.

Today these markets are known as yeshi or night markets, urban markets where street food or xiaochi (literally small eats), entertainment and shopping are offered in one place.

Although street food is a tad oilier and meatier than health-conscious eaters would like, it's the perfect comfort food that is faster and fresher than that offered by fast-food chains. However, since street food encompasses a wide range of ingredients, dishes and preparation methods, it's easy to find a treat to satisfy the pickiest eater.

Street food in Taiwan covers a wide variety of foods - simple snacks like fried tofu, barbecued seafood, noodles, rice, famous bubble milk tea, deserts and more.

Snacking in Taiwan can replace a full meal because so many choices are available, and all to go. For instance, a diner can try a stick of meat-mushroom balls for starters, a bowl of minced meat rice of the main course and a bowl of refreshing grass jelly to finish off; all in the same market.

Casual, fast, loud and yet serving up delicious treats, Taiwanese street vendors made their mark overseas, but here in Shanghai street food has mostly translated into restaurant fare.

Recently, however, Taiwanese street food has begun making its mark - one small step at a time by bringing in specialty stalls like those in Taiwan that sell only one item, make it to perfection and make the reputation of the owner-vendor.

In a field with intense competition, a few favorites have emerged - handmade beef noodles, black pepper biscuits, pearl milk tea and the famously large fried chicken. A bit of each (which makes a full, four-course meal), and a diner might feel as if they're walking in a famous Taiwan night market - with both hands full, face stuffed and food all over the T-shirt.

Shanghai Daily selects some of the four best places to go for an authentic taste of each.

Meet Fresh (Xian Yu Xian)

浠欒妺浠�

Cuisine: Taiwanese drinks and desserts. There are both hot and cold desserts, suitable for all seasons. A popular chain store from Taiwan, it is known for its initial concept of two old people wanting to share their love for taro ball desserts.

Ambience: Not much, but it's roomy and there are two levels for diners to choose from. It's clean, bright and has a happy vibe. Casual and relaxed, it is almost like a fast-food joint.

Go with: Friends, family, anyone if you are looking for a drink or a simple dessert.

Pros: The signature pearl milk tea tastes authentic, and the pearls are chewy and addictive. The tea is brewed perfectly, either green or black tea, and the mix of milk and tea is just right. Guests can choose how much sugar they want. Among the most popular desserts are the signature grass jelly and handmade taro balls (yuyuan). There are a variety of grass jelly and taro balls to choose from. Guests can order additional taro balls, lotus seed or sweet potatoes for 2 yuan (31 US cents). Most desserts are handmade and colorings are natural food colorings. Portions are large. Delivery is offered.

Cons: Little to no service. No English menu and the cashier staff does not speak English. Take-away portions are smaller than those for in-restaurant diners. The prices are slightly higher than those of other city dessert shops.

Recommended: The pearl milk tea is delicious and does not leave an aftertaste. For dessert, the taro balls are chewy (or as they describe: "q"), and just the right size for even children to chew. The two most popular desserts are the grass jellies and soy bean curd since diners can add ingredients. Taro balls can be ordered with all drinks and desserts.

Don't order: Don't over order. Although almost everything is worth a try, the big bowl means one order is enough for two. Those who want something quite sweet may find the grass jelly not sweet enough. The iced desserts are not remarkable and although perfect for summer, they are not so special.

Cost: 15-20 yuan per dish

Address: 1F, 77 Songshan Rd, near Huaihai Road M.

Tel: 6384-1777

Ji Heng

鍚変酣闈㈤

Cuisine: Handmade noodles, in particular Taiwanese beef noodles. Also cold noodles and side dishes.

Ambience: Casual, simple and noisy, it's suitable for either a quick lunch or a chat with friends.

Go with: Family, friends for a casual hangout.

Pros: The noodles are delicious, and the texture is just right. Diners can choose the width of their noodles, since both broad and fine noodles are offered - broad noodles go better with soups. It's a casual restaurant, food is served quickly, while a certain standard is maintained. There's a great variety of beef noodles, from meaty to tendon to oxtail. The braised intestines have been braised for a long time and taste sweet and salty at the same time without retaining that intestine smell. The braised egg is also delicious. The soup has been cooked on a slow fire for a few hours and is thick and fragrant. Portions are also hearty and generous, despite the reasonable prices. The menu is extensive.

Cons: The weekday lunch crowd is big and the place is very busy. There may be a long wait. The service staff, depending on their mood, can be inattentive and diners may have to wait a while to place an order. There's no English menu. There's not a great variety of cold noodles, which many people like in summer.

Recommended: For first timers, the half tendon, half meat beef noodles are excellent. The soup is fragrant and beefy though not over the top, and the beef is tender yet chewy. For cold noodles, Juan Cun Noodles (Village Noodles) are delicious and suitable for summer since it's refreshing and not too heavy. For side dishes, the braised tofu is suitable for all seasons, and the hint of garlic with the house chili sauce is spot on. The mixed seaweed is excellent.

Don't order: The dumplings (jiaozi) are too meaty and lack seasoning. The Dandan noodles are delicious but a tad too heavy on the peanut sauce; diners may tire of it before they're halfway through.

Drinks: Complimentary tea and water.

Cost: 100-120 yuan for three people

Address: 433 Guyang Rd

Tel: 2809-6088

Shi Zhang Hu Jiao Bing

甯傞暱鑳℃楗�

Cuisine: Literally named "Mayor's Black Pepper Biscuits," the name says it all.

Ambience: There are no seats since the eatery sells only snacks and not a proper meal. It's located in a food court area in a mall; diners should snack only and be prepared to eat while walking around.

Go with: Friends, family, colleagues, anyone fancying a small bite after a day's shopping or work.

Pros: Despite their crispy exterior, the biscuits are stuffed with meat and spring onions and topped with a black pepper seasoning, giving it a pleasingly fragrant aroma. There is a unique mix of spiciness and meatiness at once and the sesame on top adds to the texture. The sour plum juice is icily delicious, and the combination of the biscuits with the drink is a perfect match - spicy, sour and sweet. For something sweet the Sweet Peanut Rolls are delicious: sweetened peanuts are wrapped with spring roll skins. It's perfect for a to-go snack and one can grab a biscuit or drink if they're in a rush.

Cons: Although delicious, the black pepper biscuits here are slightly below standard in comparison to the famous Raohe Night Market' fare in Taipei due to a lack of onions in the meat stuffing. It is also less moist. The long queues and lack of dining space is a bit inconvenient and the menu is rather limited.

Recommended: The black pepper biscuits, of course. They are best eaten with the sour plum soup to balance the meaty aftertaste. The sour plum juice itself is also refreshing.

Don't order: Since this is a specialty stall, its menu is so limited that the place serves only what it is good out. If you're not a meat lover, then sweetened peanuts are good.

Drinks: Sour plum juice.

Cost: Around 10 yuan per person

Address: Taiwan Pavilion, BT12, B2, Sun Moon Light Shopping Mall, 618 Xujiahui Rd

Taiwei Weizhu Restaurant

鍙板懗鍛充富椋熺

Cuisine: Taiwanese casual eats, from street snacks to noodles and rice. Desserts and medicinal soups are also available.

Ambience: Clean, lively and with a hint of Eastern Europe, the green-and-white interior creates a happy vibe. The restaurant is rather small, however, there is a certain vibrance radiating off the walls with their Taiwanese decorations.

Go with: Friends and family, or a quick food date with your partner.

Pros: The Taiwanese manager and boss tries to maintain the standard and service and the taste of braised foods is authentic. The menu is extensive and covers the favorites. Braised snacks are delicious and orders can be personalized as diners are able to choose their own ingredients. A membership card and rewards are offered, a new idea gaining popularity in Taiwan.

Cons: The braised intestines and pig's ears may turn some people off. Although they are among the most famous Taiwanese braised snacks, some people may not like the taste of organs. There is no English menu.

Recommended: The braised meat on rice is just right and surprisingly light. The seasoning for the pork ribs with noodles is spot on, and would tickle the taste buds of meat lovers. The Jiu Fen Old Street Yam Balls are also delicious and refreshingly light.

Don't order: Intestines if you are not an adventurous eater.

Drinks: Juice, smoothies and tea. The smoothies are mainly ice-blended.

Cost: 25-30 yuan per person

Address: Taiwan Pavilion, BT10, B2, Sun Moon Light Shopping Mall, 618 Xujiahui Rd

Tel: 6093-8436