H.Stern: From sparkling gems to river pebbles
Print Edition
When Roberto Stern took over from his father Hans, the H.Stern company had already established itself as one of the world’s leading, innovative jewelers.
The company played a major role in raising the Brazilian jewelry industry up to international standards.
“We, as a family, were always exposed to his passion about gemstones,” said Stern, who is now president of the company. After working in other companies and studying gemology he joined the family business.
He started as a trainee when he was in his early 20s, working in different divisions. By the 1990s, after his immersion, Stern was completely involved in the creative area, starting special projects and the first conceptual collections. Founded in 1945, H.Stern won its place on the global map as a prestigious company for the quality of its precious gemstones and metals as well as its manufacturing skills.
Times and the market changed. It was a challenge.
But times were challenging.
“I realized that it would be very interesting to add a conceptual design approach to this already strong basis,” said Stern who has a passion for design and the arts.
Since the 1990s, Stern’s creative vision has shaped the company and new lines of jewelry have been inspired by art, architecture, pop culture and broader culture.
“I think the design is a consequence of a concept and research, then there is intuition, to project the future. And without passion there is no present. Working with other artists, without boundaries, such as architect Oscar Niemeyer and Diane Von Furstenberg, with her vision of empowering women teaches me a lot,” Stern said.
Stern combines his responsibilities as president with his passion for the creative side, focusing on innovative aspects of the brand presence, marketing and product development.
When he talks about design, femininity is what comes to mind. “That’s my first thought. Materials are rare and precious and this is basically the only constraint in our work.”
Making jewelry is a “value proposition,” he said, noting that most artists in other fields don’t have to worry about the issue.
“Style matters a lot, since we want a product that will be lasting for decades. Classic jewelry was born daring so I don’t want to be classic to begin with,” he said.
H.Stern turns organic forms of river pebbles into organic rings in the Golden Stones collection. An irregular, cobblestone street inspired sumptuous bracelets in the Cobblestones line. The movement of ballet can be interpreted in light, articulated jewels in the GrupoCorpo collection. The Star collection blends Victorian style and rock’n’roll. Inspiration is everywhere.
“The greatest challenge of the moment is to let people know that we are still artisans and be able to compete and find our niche among luxury conglomerates that invest so much in marketing,” Stern said.
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