Related News
Clothes make the man
April 13, 2012, Friday
|
Print Edition
Print Edition
WHILE men's fashion isn't as flamboyant as it is for women, top-notch designers still know how to add some flourish to menswear. Gucci looks back to the 19th century for it's bohemian look while Prada trots out some big-name actors like Gary Oldman to model its latest collection. Sarah Burton finds inspiration in Victorian Britain.
Romance and decadence were the twin inspirations behind Gucci's handsome collection that channeled poets, painters and heroes on horseback. Creative director Frida Giannini said that while her mind was on the 19th century, she was careful to mix the flower prints, velvets, jacquards and tapestry-like weaves in a contemporary way. "I was thinking bohemian grunge," she said before the show.
Giannini's bohemians were more of the polished variety, striding down the runway in velvet jackets with jacquard flower motifs or trousers with dark botanical prints, roses and irises inspired by shadows in the paintings of Caravaggio. Often, the Gucci men toted carpetbags with distressed leather trim, or briefcases with horn handles. Giannini played with proportions, tossing sweeping overcoats or chunky ribbed knits over skinny trousers and riding boots, part of the military theme that wove its way through. Poet, painter, soldier, lover? Giannini's collection was generous enough to encompass them all, and then some.
While it was said to have been a last-minute decision by Miuccia Prada to have actors close her show, she nonetheless managed to recruit quite a power troop, including Gary Oldman, Willem Dafoe, Tim Roth and Adrien Brody.
Asked if they were all doing vodka shots together before walking in the show to calm their nerves, Oldman replied: "No, not at all, we were drinking water. We're very clean living these days."
So how was the experience? "The space was amazing, it sort of felt like walking around some emperor's palace, and I felt very confident in the clothes. I'm wearing a waistcoat under this, so I felt very held in," he said, patting his chest.
Prada chief Patrizio Bertelli walked by looking like the cat that got the cream as Adrien Brody enthused: "It was terribly fun because of this outfit that is so specific of a character. Music was also an inspiration."
When told that Miuccia Prada said before the show that he was "eccentric" and fearless about wearing unusual clothes, he added: "Being an actor you must have a sense of humor and be playful. And brave to be different from yourself even in your sense of style."
Dafoe compared the experience to a theater performance, "taking cues from the audience." The actor said they were simply told the direction to walk, but there had been no rehearsals.
Jamie Bell said it was? "a lovely experience," although he was "not too sure where to look." Emile Hirsch confessed he was "nervous" before stepping on the runway, "but actors are used to doing their job under pressure."
Giorgio Armani isn't letting the economy and Italy's debt problems dampen his spirits. "I can't be concerned all the time, otherwise I would just take the money and go on vacation," said Armani after his signature men's show, where celebrities in the front row included the violinist Ray Chen and the French actor Louis Garrel.
On the contrary, the designer said he is "seriously" investing in expanding globally, in China in particular, leveraging on his company's double-digit growth in 2011.
"The year 2011 was more positive than we expected, and we are on the right track to continue so," said the designer.
When asked about large French conglomerates taking control of Italian companies, such as Berluti, Bulgari and Brioni, Armani said: "It's not over yet. They are very combative in their activity to gain possession of brands that are solid, that have years of history behind them and a chain of stores? not just any poor devil."
A cast of colorful characters from Victorian Britain - game keepers, lords, dandies and boxers - accompanied Sarah Burton as she elevated McQueen menswear to more luxurious, tailoring-driven territory.
"I wanted it to be chic and elegant," she said. Bold pinstripes and what the designer called "exploded" Prince of Wales checks gave her take on the power suit extra oomph. Natty plus fours and contoured trousers underpinned the period vibe. Modern accents came via engineer prints of feathers or moire patterns worked into suits. Plainer pieces also had punch, including a shearling bomber jacket and a killer double-breasted cashmere coat.
Romance and decadence were the twin inspirations behind Gucci's handsome collection that channeled poets, painters and heroes on horseback. Creative director Frida Giannini said that while her mind was on the 19th century, she was careful to mix the flower prints, velvets, jacquards and tapestry-like weaves in a contemporary way. "I was thinking bohemian grunge," she said before the show.
Giannini's bohemians were more of the polished variety, striding down the runway in velvet jackets with jacquard flower motifs or trousers with dark botanical prints, roses and irises inspired by shadows in the paintings of Caravaggio. Often, the Gucci men toted carpetbags with distressed leather trim, or briefcases with horn handles. Giannini played with proportions, tossing sweeping overcoats or chunky ribbed knits over skinny trousers and riding boots, part of the military theme that wove its way through. Poet, painter, soldier, lover? Giannini's collection was generous enough to encompass them all, and then some.
While it was said to have been a last-minute decision by Miuccia Prada to have actors close her show, she nonetheless managed to recruit quite a power troop, including Gary Oldman, Willem Dafoe, Tim Roth and Adrien Brody.
Asked if they were all doing vodka shots together before walking in the show to calm their nerves, Oldman replied: "No, not at all, we were drinking water. We're very clean living these days."
So how was the experience? "The space was amazing, it sort of felt like walking around some emperor's palace, and I felt very confident in the clothes. I'm wearing a waistcoat under this, so I felt very held in," he said, patting his chest.
Prada chief Patrizio Bertelli walked by looking like the cat that got the cream as Adrien Brody enthused: "It was terribly fun because of this outfit that is so specific of a character. Music was also an inspiration."
When told that Miuccia Prada said before the show that he was "eccentric" and fearless about wearing unusual clothes, he added: "Being an actor you must have a sense of humor and be playful. And brave to be different from yourself even in your sense of style."
Dafoe compared the experience to a theater performance, "taking cues from the audience." The actor said they were simply told the direction to walk, but there had been no rehearsals.
Jamie Bell said it was? "a lovely experience," although he was "not too sure where to look." Emile Hirsch confessed he was "nervous" before stepping on the runway, "but actors are used to doing their job under pressure."
Giorgio Armani isn't letting the economy and Italy's debt problems dampen his spirits. "I can't be concerned all the time, otherwise I would just take the money and go on vacation," said Armani after his signature men's show, where celebrities in the front row included the violinist Ray Chen and the French actor Louis Garrel.
On the contrary, the designer said he is "seriously" investing in expanding globally, in China in particular, leveraging on his company's double-digit growth in 2011.
"The year 2011 was more positive than we expected, and we are on the right track to continue so," said the designer.
When asked about large French conglomerates taking control of Italian companies, such as Berluti, Bulgari and Brioni, Armani said: "It's not over yet. They are very combative in their activity to gain possession of brands that are solid, that have years of history behind them and a chain of stores? not just any poor devil."
A cast of colorful characters from Victorian Britain - game keepers, lords, dandies and boxers - accompanied Sarah Burton as she elevated McQueen menswear to more luxurious, tailoring-driven territory.
"I wanted it to be chic and elegant," she said. Bold pinstripes and what the designer called "exploded" Prince of Wales checks gave her take on the power suit extra oomph. Natty plus fours and contoured trousers underpinned the period vibe. Modern accents came via engineer prints of feathers or moire patterns worked into suits. Plainer pieces also had punch, including a shearling bomber jacket and a killer double-breasted cashmere coat.
- About Us
- |
- Terms of Use
- |
-
RSS - |
- Privacy Policy
- |
- Contact Us
- |
- Shanghai Call Center: 962288
- |
- Tip-off hotline: 52920043
- 沪ICP证：沪ICP备05050403号-1
- |
- 互联网新闻信息服务许可证：31120180004
- |
- 网络视听许可证：0909346
- |
- 广播电视节目制作许可证：沪字第354号
- |
- 增值电信业务经营许可证：沪B2-20120012
Copyright © 1999- Shanghai Daily. All rights reserved.Preferably viewed with Internet Explorer 8 or newer browsers.
