Growing up in public
By Samantha Critchell |
December 21, 2012, Friday
|
Print Edition
Print Edition
THIS season's clothes aren't taking their cues from club kids, college students or teenage rebels. There's something grown-up about some of the most popular looks: They're a little refined and very wearable, but avoid being stodgy or, worse, just plain old.
Some influence could be coming from pop culture with "The Great Gatsby" and "Anna Karenina" among the anticipated movies before year's end, and the popularity of TV period pieces such as "Downton Abbey," ''Mad Men" and "Boardwalk Empire."
On fall-winter runways, Marlene Dietrich lookalikes appeared at Donna Karan, Charles Dickens-inspired characters at Marc Jacobs and the models at Louis Vuitton seemed poised for a romantic rendezvous on the Orient Express.
Polished sophistication can be tempting after periods over the past decade that have favored bohemian, aggressive and blingy looks.
"The air of fashion is a little more elegant right now," said Banana Republic creative director Simon Kneen.
Some trends on retail racks include rich jewel tones of purple, blue and green, lace handiwork and refined accessories including brooches, opera gloves and top-handle bags.
The newness is coming from the feeling of aristocracy with a dash of opulence, says Brooke Jaffe, director of fashion accessories at Bloomingdale's.
"Dressing from the top of society is where trends are coming from, not street trends. Where's that coming from? The royal family? 'Downton Abbey?' I'm not sure," she says.
Buttery, work-appropriate leather pants, equestrian jackets, quilting and gilded baroque embellishments are also on the sophisticated shopping list, says Brandon Holley, editor-in-chief of Lucky magazine.
It's not just fashion experiencing this adult-quake, says Tom Morton, North American chief strategy officer for forecasting and advertising company Havas Worldwide. He prepared a report that dealt with the "pushback against youth obsession."
"People are going where the money is," Morton says.
A side effect of the economic downturn is that teenagers and 20-somethings aren't entering the economy as early as counterparts a generation ago, he explains.
Meanwhile, famous faces aren't leaving the stage as they age: Morton points to the popularity of Paul McCartney at the Olympics. Even James Bond is 50 - and actor Daniel Craig who portrays him is 44.
Adam Glassman, creative director of "O, The Oprah Magazine", says more people are comfortable in their own skin. Women aren't necessarily using fashion and beauty as a tool to look younger, he observes. Instead, they using those tools to be the best 40-, 50- or 60-year-old they can be.
"When young people wear it, they looked pulled together, polished. When older women wear it they like the trends of being more covered, the return to hosiery and vintage jewelry," adds Glassman.
Some influence could be coming from pop culture with "The Great Gatsby" and "Anna Karenina" among the anticipated movies before year's end, and the popularity of TV period pieces such as "Downton Abbey," ''Mad Men" and "Boardwalk Empire."
On fall-winter runways, Marlene Dietrich lookalikes appeared at Donna Karan, Charles Dickens-inspired characters at Marc Jacobs and the models at Louis Vuitton seemed poised for a romantic rendezvous on the Orient Express.
Polished sophistication can be tempting after periods over the past decade that have favored bohemian, aggressive and blingy looks.
"The air of fashion is a little more elegant right now," said Banana Republic creative director Simon Kneen.
Some trends on retail racks include rich jewel tones of purple, blue and green, lace handiwork and refined accessories including brooches, opera gloves and top-handle bags.
The newness is coming from the feeling of aristocracy with a dash of opulence, says Brooke Jaffe, director of fashion accessories at Bloomingdale's.
"Dressing from the top of society is where trends are coming from, not street trends. Where's that coming from? The royal family? 'Downton Abbey?' I'm not sure," she says.
Buttery, work-appropriate leather pants, equestrian jackets, quilting and gilded baroque embellishments are also on the sophisticated shopping list, says Brandon Holley, editor-in-chief of Lucky magazine.
It's not just fashion experiencing this adult-quake, says Tom Morton, North American chief strategy officer for forecasting and advertising company Havas Worldwide. He prepared a report that dealt with the "pushback against youth obsession."
"People are going where the money is," Morton says.
A side effect of the economic downturn is that teenagers and 20-somethings aren't entering the economy as early as counterparts a generation ago, he explains.
Meanwhile, famous faces aren't leaving the stage as they age: Morton points to the popularity of Paul McCartney at the Olympics. Even James Bond is 50 - and actor Daniel Craig who portrays him is 44.
Adam Glassman, creative director of "O, The Oprah Magazine", says more people are comfortable in their own skin. Women aren't necessarily using fashion and beauty as a tool to look younger, he observes. Instead, they using those tools to be the best 40-, 50- or 60-year-old they can be.
"When young people wear it, they looked pulled together, polished. When older women wear it they like the trends of being more covered, the return to hosiery and vintage jewelry," adds Glassman.
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