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Milan fashions bold, eclectic
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Dolce and Gabbana seemed to be saying, “If you got it, flaunt it,” in their latest summer collection loaded with gold coins.
The treasury of Greek and Roman coins appeared in print on silk dresses and skirts, as tassels on bags and shoes, as ostentatious buckles on leather belts, or simply as jewelry.
Underlining the message, the design team Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana sent a bevy of models down the runway all in gilded lace for their traditional show finale.
“We wanted to do something more daring to pursue the idea of absolute creativity which leaves free rein to imagination,” Gabbana said ahead of the show in their ex-cinema headquarters.
The designers, who have long taken inspiration from Sicily, in recent seasons have focused more concretely on the island’s treasures. Already in the menswear shows for summer last June, Dolce&Gabbana featured Greek temples, which appeared again in the women’s collection for summer 2014 painted across silk outfits.
The show’s backdrop was an orchard of blooming almond trees — one of Sicily’s natural wonders. The delicate pinkish blossoms appear as appliques on feminine organza dresses and also tops.
The collection oozed luxury, from the colored fur stoles, and even tops, to gold-encrusted mini-dresses with matching gilded bags.
The majesty of the footwear was not in the usual super-high heel, but in the myriad of coins that adorned them.
Etro shimmers for next summer, with metal accents embroidered into fabric and trimming fringe collars.
Veronica Etro’s latest collection, previewed on the third day of Milan Fashion Week, had an ethnic flair with a cosmopolitan twist — achieved by embroidering metal squares into tulle or knitting metal with suede cotton and satin ribbon.
Halter dresses are long and diaphanous, wrapping easily around the body and featuring scarf necks finished with metal fringe. Skirts have a sarong effect, but the show notes say they are in fact constructed. Pants, in suede or silk, are wide and cropped, and worn with square knit sweaters.
The color palette is mostly soft, allowing the traditional Etro paisley, even when set against contrasting patterns, to seem to melt into neutral monochromes like sage and peach. Stronger colors like coral and lemon contrast with black for a stronger statement.
The looks are finished with bleached silver accents on belts, bracelets and handbag straps. Sandals are flat or with a stiletto heel.
Miuccia Prada is the most eclectic designer on the Milan runway. Every season she goes to a new place, either literally or figuratively, for inspiration and comes up with a collection that is different from everybody else’s and almost always brings down the house.
To inspire the summer collection, Prada commissioned pop art murals for the walls of the label’s show space, as part of Prada’s stated aim “to engage themes of femininity, representation, power and multiplicity.” International muralists Miles “El Mac” Gregor, Mesa, Gabriel Specter, Stinkfish and illustrators Jeanne Detallante and Pierre Mornet participated.
The murals translated into the collection as women’s faces on knitwear and fur, rainbow patterns on overcoats and handbags — and the overall over-the-top feel of the collection.
Originally renown as a minimalist designer, Prada went to town in this avant-garde collection full of glitter and glam. One of the leitmotifs was a graphic brassiere superimposed on outwear — sometimes as an image, sometimes in bold sequins. The effect was a bonanza of color.
The looks were both an exploration of femininity and urban power. This is seen in the pleated skirts worn with athletic striped leg warmers and thick-soled sports sandals, albeit showered with sequins. As with many collections this go round, pants were few and far between.
The bags were prim and proper, at times incorporating bold motifs from the murals.
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