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On the scent of new fragrance trends
By Yang Di |
December 21, 2012, Friday
|
Print Edition
Print Edition
SYMRISE, one of the world's largest suppliers in the fragrance and flavor industry, has just celebrated its 30 years in China.
Beatrice Mouleyre, the company's senior vice president of Global Fine Fragrance, steers all fine fragrance creations and is constantly on the lookout for new inspiration. Here, she shares some insights into the market and the latest trends.
What are the current trends?
For women, the first trend is an "eternal addict trend" - childhood reminiscences and reassurance through fruitiness and gourmandize. Examples include In Love Again by Yves Saint Laurent and La Petite Robe Noire by Guerlain.
The second is a retro revival trend with back-to-beautiful-basics through re-enchanted iconic structures in floral bouquets or forgotten raw materials. Examples include Coco Noir by Chanel, L'Eau de Chloe by Chloe and Shalimar Parfum Initial by Guerlain.
Third is a woody trend, creating elegant sensuality through patchouli or dry woody facets. Examples include Black XS l'Excès for Her by Paco Rabanne, Ange Ou Démon Le Secret Lace Edition by Givenchy.
For men, we've seen four trends. Firstly, woody darkness with leather, incense and oud - from the tropical agar tree - providing elegance to fragrances. Examples include 212 VIP for Men by Carolina Herrera and Play Leather Edition by Givenchy.
Second is a "woody addiction trend" with spices and ambery fruits, such as Spice Bomb by Viktor & Rolf and Black XS l'Excès for Him by Paco Rabanne.
Third is a fresh green trend - a vegetal hook with a citrus touch - such as Play Sport by Givenchy and Boss Bottled Sport by Hugo Boss.
The fourth is contrasts created through aldehydes or mint top notes, and dry amber and incense base notes. Examples include Kokorico by Jean Paul Gaultier and Decibel by Azzaro.
What ingredients are current favorites?
Grapefruit is popular in sporty masculine fragrances - Play Sport Givenchy and Kenzo pour Homme Sport by Kenzo. For feminine fragrances, orris - iris root - is a favorite. It creates a powdery signature with high quality tones - think No. 19 Poudr? by Chanel, La Vie est belle by Lanc?me.
What's the most erotic raw material?
They are so many, each perfumer has his or her own! For Maurice Roucel (L'Instant, L'Insolence by Guerlain), vanilla is a must. For others, like Emilie Coppermann (Black XS Paco Rabanne), it is about the leathery accents of labdanum. Personally, just a drop of amber, like in Helmut Lang cologne.
What is the Symrise creative process?
Creativity is in everyday life, in every moment. We create the ground for creativity. Through scent expeditions, trends studies, art exhibitions or brainstorming with flavorists, perfumers create amazing new accords and a fragrance is born !
How do you ensure the sustainability of ingredients?Sustainability is a cornerstone of our strategy. Symrise respects the total ban on natural musk in fragrance and supports efforts in China to help protect the endangered musk deer.
Our Scents of Shangri-la expedition brought our perfumers to the natural habitat of the musk deer to learn about our efforts to help protect it and to be exposed to the unique flora of these areas, some at altitudes of more than 4,000 meters. The result is a beautiful collection of fragrances, made all the more special by the story of sustainability behind it.
To give another example, vanilla is a very important ingredient for Symrise. In Madagascar we have a direct access to more than 6,000 small farmers and secure traceability and optimum quality.
We've had a flood of celebrity perfumes recently - including Madonna's Truth or Dare and Lady's Gaga's Monster. What's your view of this phenomenon?
Celebrities fragrances have existed for a long time. They make the fragrance world more accessible and can be hugely successful - like the Justin Bieber fragrance right now in the US. But fragrances are usually made for a large audience and do not always reflect the personality of the celebrity.
What are your Christmas choices?
For my mother, L'instant Magic by Guerlain; for my father, Fahrenheit by Dior; for my sister, Ange ou D?mon Le Secretêby Givenchy; for my husband, 212 VIP for men by Carolina Herrera. For myself? I remain faithful to Helmut Lang cologne.
Beatrice Mouleyre, the company's senior vice president of Global Fine Fragrance, steers all fine fragrance creations and is constantly on the lookout for new inspiration. Here, she shares some insights into the market and the latest trends.
What are the current trends?
For women, the first trend is an "eternal addict trend" - childhood reminiscences and reassurance through fruitiness and gourmandize. Examples include In Love Again by Yves Saint Laurent and La Petite Robe Noire by Guerlain.
The second is a retro revival trend with back-to-beautiful-basics through re-enchanted iconic structures in floral bouquets or forgotten raw materials. Examples include Coco Noir by Chanel, L'Eau de Chloe by Chloe and Shalimar Parfum Initial by Guerlain.
Third is a woody trend, creating elegant sensuality through patchouli or dry woody facets. Examples include Black XS l'Excès for Her by Paco Rabanne, Ange Ou Démon Le Secret Lace Edition by Givenchy.
For men, we've seen four trends. Firstly, woody darkness with leather, incense and oud - from the tropical agar tree - providing elegance to fragrances. Examples include 212 VIP for Men by Carolina Herrera and Play Leather Edition by Givenchy.
Second is a "woody addiction trend" with spices and ambery fruits, such as Spice Bomb by Viktor & Rolf and Black XS l'Excès for Him by Paco Rabanne.
Third is a fresh green trend - a vegetal hook with a citrus touch - such as Play Sport by Givenchy and Boss Bottled Sport by Hugo Boss.
The fourth is contrasts created through aldehydes or mint top notes, and dry amber and incense base notes. Examples include Kokorico by Jean Paul Gaultier and Decibel by Azzaro.
What ingredients are current favorites?
Grapefruit is popular in sporty masculine fragrances - Play Sport Givenchy and Kenzo pour Homme Sport by Kenzo. For feminine fragrances, orris - iris root - is a favorite. It creates a powdery signature with high quality tones - think No. 19 Poudr? by Chanel, La Vie est belle by Lanc?me.
What's the most erotic raw material?
They are so many, each perfumer has his or her own! For Maurice Roucel (L'Instant, L'Insolence by Guerlain), vanilla is a must. For others, like Emilie Coppermann (Black XS Paco Rabanne), it is about the leathery accents of labdanum. Personally, just a drop of amber, like in Helmut Lang cologne.
What is the Symrise creative process?
Creativity is in everyday life, in every moment. We create the ground for creativity. Through scent expeditions, trends studies, art exhibitions or brainstorming with flavorists, perfumers create amazing new accords and a fragrance is born !
How do you ensure the sustainability of ingredients?Sustainability is a cornerstone of our strategy. Symrise respects the total ban on natural musk in fragrance and supports efforts in China to help protect the endangered musk deer.
Our Scents of Shangri-la expedition brought our perfumers to the natural habitat of the musk deer to learn about our efforts to help protect it and to be exposed to the unique flora of these areas, some at altitudes of more than 4,000 meters. The result is a beautiful collection of fragrances, made all the more special by the story of sustainability behind it.
To give another example, vanilla is a very important ingredient for Symrise. In Madagascar we have a direct access to more than 6,000 small farmers and secure traceability and optimum quality.
We've had a flood of celebrity perfumes recently - including Madonna's Truth or Dare and Lady's Gaga's Monster. What's your view of this phenomenon?
Celebrities fragrances have existed for a long time. They make the fragrance world more accessible and can be hugely successful - like the Justin Bieber fragrance right now in the US. But fragrances are usually made for a large audience and do not always reflect the personality of the celebrity.
What are your Christmas choices?
For my mother, L'instant Magic by Guerlain; for my father, Fahrenheit by Dior; for my sister, Ange ou D?mon Le Secretêby Givenchy; for my husband, 212 VIP for men by Carolina Herrera. For myself? I remain faithful to Helmut Lang cologne.
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