DIVERSE, multicultural, evolving, laid-back, liberal, a melting pot of history and styles: Berlin is constantly changing and progressing, earning it a reputation as perhaps Europe’s coolest metropolis.

Mayor Klaus Wowereit, native born and bred, who shares the dynamic charisma oozed by the city, stated “Berlin ist arm, aber sexy.” (Berlin is poor, but sexy) in a television interview in 2004. He hit the same theme three years ago, when he said: “We want Berlin to become richer and stay sexy.”

“Poor but sexy” perfectly sums up the city’s allure and its problems. The vibrant, popular and openly gay mayor’s frequent liberal statements and his welcoming of an international gay, sadomasochist fetish party to the city in 2005 haven’t endeared him to conservatives. But he effortlessly personifies the hip, sophisticated and tolerant image that pervades Berlin.

“Paris is always Paris and Berlin is never Berlin!” said former French Culture Minister Jack Lang.

Lang referred in part to the fact that Berlin acts like a magnet, especially for creative, flamboyant people from around the world who end up making their visions a reality here. Creativity is celebrated, and craving for freedom is encouraged. That brings a lot of change.

War altered city

Artists and actors, chefs and authors, comedians and fashion designers — they all live and work in Berlin, often with great success.

Though Berlin should be on every European traveler’s radar, it is not the city you can spend three or four days wandering among the landmarks and sights, then go back and tell people “I’ve been there and know it well.”

That’s because while the 20th century changed all cities, perhaps none was more altered than Berlin, from its destruction in World War II  that left few historic buildings intact to the 1989 unification that brought together the architecture of two competing ideologies into one city. Alongside historical landmarks, the huge city is filled with some of the world’s finest architecture, and the best way to see it is on foot.

Prussia’s most outstanding 19th century architect, Karl Friedrich Schinkel, created buildings distributed generously throughout portions of what were East and West Berlin. They include the Altes Museum at Lustgarten, the Schauspielhaus at Gendarmenmarkt, the Neue Wache on Unter den Linden and the cube-shaped Bauakademie, as well as gems in other locales such as Charlottenhof Palace in Potsdam and the Roman Baths in the park at Sanssouci. Schinkel’s work is universal, and no other German architect has been so influential.

The pioneering masters of modern architecture, including Walter Adolph Georg Gropius, Le Corbusier, Mies van der Rohe and Alvar Aalto, have also left their marks in the city while the contemporary masters such as Norman Foster, Richard Rogers and Frank Gehry have also been invited in since the fall of the Berlin Wall.

While magnificent architecture is spread throughout the city, visitors can get a good start at Museum Island in the central Mitte district, the site of the old city of Colln. Five world-renowned museums are clustered in an extraordinary ensemble, the complex itself a work of art. Six thousand years of culture and history are illustrated on Museum Island, stretching from ancient Egypt to European art of the 19th century.

Rewarding walks

Simply walking in the area is a delightful experience. Museum Island has been included on the list of UNESCO World Heritage sites not just because of its collections but also for its unique architectural ensemble of museum buildings. The five edifices, constructed between 1824 and 1930 by renowned Prussian architects, were pioneering examples of architecture at the time.

But like so many parts of Berlin, the complex was badly damaged in the war and underwent a huge reconstruction. Neues Museum, for instance, was renovated by British architect David Chipperfield, who returned what was a bombed-out wreck to its original purpose as the home of a mighty archaeological collection.

Elsewhere in Berlin, Unter den Linden in the Mitte district, with Brandenburg Gate as its centerpiece, leads into the historic heart of the city. Before the war, Unter den Linden was one of Europe’s grand boulevards. Named centuries ago for its thousand linden trees, it was the most elegant street of Prussian Berlin before Hitler’s rise to power. Today, a pre-Hitler strolling cafe ambience is returning, and the legendary Hotel Adlon Kempinski at Pariser Platz Square, with magnificent views of the landmark Brandenburg Gate, has been considered the premier address for refined, graceful hospitality since it opened its doors in 1907.

The Adlon’s first guest and most loyal patron was the Emperor Wilhelm II. Later, some royal families actually sold their winter palaces in Berlin so they could simply reside at the Adlon instead. Notable visitors to the Hotel Adlon include Greta Garbo, who whispered her most famous catch phrase “I want to be alone,” during the filming of the 1932 movie “Grand Hotel,’’ which was shot on the property. Albert Einstein often waved to passers-by from his corner window on the Pariser Platz, overlooking the Brandenburg Gate.

The hotel remained open and fully operational through World War II. Though the hotel survived the war, it burned to the ground soon afterwards. After Germany’s reunification, the land was acquired by the Fundus Fond. Since 1997 a rebuilt Hotel Adlon Kempinski Berlin reflects the classic style of its predecessor.

The upper floors of the five-star hotel provide the best views overlooking the neoclassical Brandenburg Gate. The arch was constructed in 1791 to celebrate the city’s status as Prussia’s capital.

Passing the grand gate you will see the Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe, consisting of an entire city block of concrete slabs, arranged in rows and rising to various heights on uneven ground. The controversial project was conceived in 1993 but did not open until 2005.

Not far from the memorial is the famous Reichstag, Germany’s parliament building with its glass dome constructed on top of the rebuilt building in 1999. It was designed by British architect Norman Foster and is considered a potent symbol of political aspiration. It’s not only Germany’s center of power, but also an architectural highlight. From the glass dome, you can see the other important landmarks from a bird’s eye perspective.

Signs of unification

In Berlin, you can hardly turn a corner without coming across a reminder of the city’s past or one of its new highlights. There is plenty to keep visitors happy, between the sights and the abundance of restaurants and cafes, bars and pubs, galleries and nightclubs.

Most of the landmarks and important sights are located inside the Mitte district, the post-1989 heart of the city that links Berlin’s history-charged past with its hip future. Alongside the historical landmarks, within walking distance are edgy art galleries, sophisticated museums, graceful theaters and state-of-the-art boutiques.

Sliding up the Mitte’s western flank is Berlin’s green lung, Tiergarten, bordered by the River Spree. A relaxed vibe is featured here with flea markets, the Berlin Zoo and beer gardens. With the hyper-modern Potsdamer Platz and the newly built government district by the Spree, this is the area most physically affected by reunification.

Kreuzberg is another vivid neighborhood that was once enclosed on three sides by the Berlin Wall. This former West Berlin neighborhood, south of the river Spree, features a laid-back atmosphere. You can relax in parks, by the canal or in cafes. The area was known for its large population of immigrants, hippies and artists while the city was divided.

The East Side Gallery in the same neighborhood is on most travelers’ agenda.

After the fall of the wall in 1989, dozens of artists crossed over and used the blank concrete as a canvas.  A 1.3-kilometer stretch where the wall stood houses 106 paintings by artists from all over the world, painted in 1990 as a memorial to freedom. It’s the largest open-air art gallery in the world.

Where to stay

Hotel Adlon Kempinski

With its stunning view of the Brandenburg Gate Ñ equally impressive by day or night Ñ the hotel will leave guests with a memorable stay. The legendary hotel re-opened in 1997 and quickly reclaimed its reputatwion as Berlin’s most illustrious hotel. It’s once again the gathering place for heads of state, royals, politicians, stars, intellectuals, artists, designers and other quirky characters. It contains 304 spacious rooms and 78 suites, three restaurants (one of which was awarded two Michelin stars), two bars, 15 meeting and event rooms, the grand ballroom and the Adlon Palais, a fitness center with an indoor pool and an exquisite Adlon Spa by Resense. The hotel’s location is the most prestigious in the German capital, lying in the middle of the governmental and embassy district.

Regent Berlin

Located directly at Gendarmenmarkt Square in the historical center of the capital, the hotel boasts great views of two 18th-century cathedrals as well as the old Concert Hall. Several significant sights are only a stroll away. Many of the rooms have balconies. At the gourmet restaurant Fischers Fritz, chef de cuisine Christian Lohse offers high-class fish and seafood specialties. He was awarded a Michelin star just six months after opening. In fall 2007, Lohse’s dedication to his craft has placed him firmly at the forefront of Berlin’s culinary world when he became the first Berlin chef in 13 years to merit two Michelin stars. Guests can have martinis prepared a la carte from the only martini trolley on the European mainland. Regent also offers guests its own Regent Berlin app, with all information available in German and English.

Where to shop

Friedrichstrasse has experienced a renaissance since the fall of the Berlin Wall. Today, boutiques, department stores and exclusive shops converge with history on this 3.3-kilometer street.

For more exclusive designer labels, head to Kurfurstendamms. Set among luxurious hotels, restaurants and cafes are display windows for international designers and labels. Also worth visiting are the elegant side streets that run north from Kurfurstendamm, where many chic boutiques and fancy stores can be found.