IT may seem unlikely for a city to be blessed by a picturesque natural environment, abundant culture and a prosperous economy, all at the same time. Hangzhou, however, is an exception. It is home to picturesque West Lake and is surrounded by rolling hills, hosts endless streams of visitors, has garnered celebrities’ praise through the ages, and also is among China’s top 10 in GDP.

West Lake is often considered the soul and essence of Hangzhou. The city’s culture was born of the lake, as is typified by the Xiling Seal Society, founded in 1904 beside the lake. It is the oldest and is considered the most influential society of seal arts in China.

Commerce depends on the lake, as is evident from the large numbers of tourists and the restaurants, inns and other businesses nearby.

Still, Hangzhou hasn’t walled off the beautiful lake and made it into a scenic spot with a pricey admission. West Lake is open to the public with no admission price. People stroll along the lakeside promenade and newlyweds pose for wedding photographs, in the spirit of the slogan of “returning the lake to the citizens.”

But the booming tourism industry and crowds of tourists haven’t altered Hangzhou locals’ daily rituals. They still sip tea in roadside teahouses, dancing in public squares and jog on the causeways in the morning as usual.

Natives still consider Hangzhou to be “beyond dispute the finest and the noblest in the world,” as it was described by the legendary Venetian merchant Marco Polo (1254-1324).

Hangzhou has now set for itself the goal of becoming “China’s Happiest City,” but what’s so alluring about the place is how much of its natural character remains. Let’s have a look at the experiences offered by this elegant city that can be seen in a three-day visit.

Day 1

Western Hangzhou

8:30am

We take a bullet train from Shanghai Hongqiao Railway Station and get off at Hangzhou East Railway Station. The about-one-hour train commutes between the cities from 6:30am to 8:30pm, with an interval of some 30 minutes. Take a taxi to our first destination - the western mountainous zone of Hangzhou. The fare should be about 80 yuan (US$13.12).

10am

The first day of our trip starts with a hike. Western Hangzhou is covered by rugged terrain and lush vegetation that produces excellent air quality, pleasing scenery and a pastoral peacefulness. However, such rustic places often are cut from the itineraries of tour guides due to their secluded location.

Going westwards along Hupao Road, we can see trees become loftier and villas scattered amid the forests, indicators that we have arrived at out getaway from city life.

11am

It’s lunchtime when we reach our destination, so we’d better have a bite before our hike. Let’s try some local Hangzhou cuisine served by small eateries run by natives. Beef soup and homemade glutinous cake are recommended.

12pm

We pick a hiking route starting at Wuyun Hill and heading back to Longjing Village.

Wuyun Hill is an ideal spot for hiking since the mountaintop offers a panoramic view of Hangzhou, an ancient temple and 1,000-year-old ginkgo tree.

Wuyun means five clouds, which comes from the legend that clouds of five colors could always be seen around the hill, especially at sunset. We climb starting at the Bamboo Path at Yunqi, the best hiking path for Wuyun Hill.

Hangzhou’s geography provides mountaineering enthusiasts with favorable conditions. Professional mountain-climbing competitions are held every year, attracting participants from home and abroad, so don’t be surprised if you see climbers equipped with special mountaineering equipment pass you.

The two-hour climb might tire you, so you can return by a different route taking you to Nine Creeks and Eighteen Gullies after around 20 minutes of hiking. Nine Creeks and Eighteen Gullies is considered by many as one of the most beautiful attractions of Hangzhou. It is comprised of a rural landscape of fields and folk houses, small valleys, streams and thick vegetation.

Continuing walking, we finally arrive at Longjing Village, where we can get a well-deserved cup of tea.

2:30pm

Have a brief rest after the hike, and then we can take a taxi to our second destination, Baileqiao Village.

With the development of the tourism industry, more and more youth hostels have been established around scenic spots, turning some small villages into rendezvous sites for backpackers. Such is the case with Baileqiao Village.

This village is located near Lingyin Temple, hidden in the lush vegetation of Beigao Hill. The original name of the village was Wanfo, which means thousands of Buddhas in Chinese, because it was dotted with numerous temples in ancient times.

Since 2006, villagers have pulled down worn-out houses and built two-floor villas. Following the construction, Baileqiao has become a very popular destination. You can put up for the night in family-run hostels, like Lingyin Ferry Inn, Country Stroll Inn and Xiao Zhu Li Inn. They all feature simple and homey decor and tasty food.

DAY 2

Yangmeiling

8am

Get ready for some relaxing sightseeing in Yangmeiling. Since it is near Baileqiao, renting a bicycle for the short ride there is a good idea. Yangmeiling is not always ranked in the must-visit list for Hangzhou. Nonetheless, its tranquil environment always attracts Hangzhou locals to linger there on their weekends.

Today, only 160 households inhabit Yangmeiling. The residents built houses and villas at the foot of the hill with white walls, brick roofs, carved windows and wooden handrails.

10am

Residents of Yangmeiling run guesthouses, eateries and teahouses, so don’t worry about food and accommodations when you get there. Remember to order the homemade rice wine, which tastes refreshing and aromatic with a low alcohol content.

The locals also favor dried and preserved foods, including wild vegetables, fish and poultry. Sample some in the eateries.

3pm

Take Bus Y3 at Yangmeiling and get off at the Su Causeway for a date with some flowers. Taiziwan Park holds a tulip exhibition every year after jingzhe, one of the 24 solar terms of the traditional Chinese calendar, which fell on March 6 this year. Most of the tulip buds are on the verge of blooming while some of them are blossoming already, erupting in reds, oranges, pinks and purples. Adding to the color and fragrance are classic park plants like yellow winter jasmine, pink camellia, and pink and white hill cherries.

DAY 3

Hangzhou downtown area

9am

While most tourists flock to famous scenic spots like Su Causeway and Leifeng Pagoda, we recommend you check out some hidden wonders in the West Lake Scenic Area. They are tranquil and beautiful, and among them, Yuhu (Bathing Swan) Bay Wetland and Turtle Pool are very much worth visiting. You’ll see photographers capturing the scenery and pedestrians enjoying a lakeside stroll, but since most of this area is a wetland, visitors can find secluded pools and wildlife unlike that in other parts of the lake.

12pm

It’s time for lunch! West Lake is surrounded with dozens of restaurants, most of which are popular with diners. They serve a wide variety of food from French and Japanese cuisines to Italian and Thai fare. Recommended restaurants with delicious local fare include Grandma’s Kitchen and Hangzhou Restaurant.

1:30pm

The last destination on our schedule is Xiaohezhi Street.

Take a water bus on Wulin Wharf and get off at Gongchenqiao, where we will see a street of ancient beauty.

Hangzhou’s busiest ancient street, Qinghefang Old Street, is always swarming with visitors, but only a few of them know Xiaohezhi Street, with fewer tourists but better traditional buildings.

The street is lined with museums, time-honored stores and houses with black eaves and white walls. The noted Hangzhou Arts and Crafts Museum is located on the street, where you can watch artisans making Hangzhou crafts and souvenirs on site.

Opposite the museums lies a traditional block with a Traditional Chinese Medicine theme. Traditional brands like Fang Huichun and Tian Lu and a TCM hospital have expanded into this block.

If you go

Where to stay

Hyatt Regency Hangzhou

Prominently located on the banks of West Lake, Hyatt Regency is one of Hangzhou’s most stylish icons. The 390-room hotel offers elegantly designed guestrooms, innovative restaurants and bars, and a luxurious spa and fitness center. For more information, visit www.hangzhou.regency.hyatt.com.

Address: 28 Hubin Rd

Tel: 0571-8779-1234

Xiao Zhu Li Inn

Xiao Zhu Li Inn has 19 rooms, each featuring different decor designed by the owner. The rooms are named after poetic Chinese phrases, adding to the artistic ambience. And as the nearest inn to Lingyin Temple, guests awaken to the sound of its bell.Ê

Address: No. 6 Baileqiao

Tel: 0571-8971-9898

Wyndham Grand Plaza Royale Hangzhou

Wyndham Grand Plaza Royale Hangzhou is adjacent to the breathtaking West Lake, 293 various well-appointed guestrooms, three restaurants including Western, Chinese and Thai restaurants, seveb well-equipped conference rooms.

Address: 555 Fengqi Rd

Tel: 0571-8761-6888

Jingshang Youth Hostel

Although the hostel is situated in a residential block, its location across from the famous tourist attraction Orioles Singing in the Willows has seen it become popular with young tourists.

Address: 148-5 Nanshan Rd

Tel: 0571-2806-9000

Half-bottle Restaurant and Hostel

The hotel is popular with backpackers from around the world while the restaurant serves local, home-style dishes that are simple and tasty.

Address: 17 Lianhuafeng Rd

Tel: 0571-8779-4178

Four Seasons Hotel Hangzhou at West Lake

Four Seasons Hotel Hangzhou at West Lake reveals an intimate lakeside village, with 72 guest rooms and five suites, plus three residential-style villas for families and private parties.

Address: 5 Lingyin Rd

Tel: 0571-8829-8888