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November 10, 2012

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Raising a glass to the other Niagara

MENTION Niagara and most travelers think of the famous falls, which deserve their reputation as the mother of all tourist attractions. But there's another place with Niagara in its name just a half-hour drive from the falls that should be part of any visit to the area: Niagara-on-the-Lake, a lovely town known for wineries and a charming downtown.

Visitors can also find locally grown produce, depending on what's in season, including peaches, pears and apples, along with jams, juices and other products, for sale in places like Kurtz Orchards Country Market, 16006 Niagara Parkway.

The town's leafy waterfront areas include both the Niagara River and Lake Ontario (the waterfalls flow into the river, which flows into the lake). Niagara Parkway, which follows the river, offers a "spectacular drive," according to Tina Truszyk, spokeswoman for the Tourism Partnership of Niagara. There are also cycling routes along the river and the nearby Well and Canal. Niagara-on-the-Lake has a number of bike rental companies including some like Zoom Leisure Bike - zoomleisure.com - that offer guided bike tours of the wineries.

The Niagara region's wine industry began only about 35 years ago, when winemakers realized that the area's unique Great Lakes climate and soil was well-suited to grape-growing, especially for cool-climate grapes used in table wines like pinot noir, riesling and chardonnay.

But the region is best-known for icewine, a specialty product made from grapes frozen on the vine in winter. The frozen grapes are nearly dehydrated so the juice is concentrated, which makes the wine sweeter than table wine. It's considered a dessert wine, but it can also be served with savory and even spicy entrees.

I bought a bottle of icewine from the Trius Winery at Hillebrand (1249 Niagara Stone Road) to take home after tasting it at the Trius Winery Restaurant. Served at the end of a family barbecue, the icewine's rich fruity flavor was enjoyed by all as an after-dinner treat, providing a sophisticated palate-clearing contrast to our casual meal of hot dogs, burgers and corn.

Icewines are sold in half-bottles - 375 milliliters rather than 750 - and are generally more expensive than ordinary table wines, in the US$40-60 range. A popular icewine festival takes place each January with tastings, seminars, contests and other events.

Wineries range from smaller rustic properties like Ravine Vineyard to larger estate-style wineries like Peller, Inniskillin and Trius. A number of newer wineries, like Southbrook Vineyards, are focusing on sustainability and agricultural techniques that have a low impact on the environment. Bus tours and private guided tours are available, or you can make your own itinerary using the Wine Route Planner at winecountryontario.ca.

The wineries are so well-signed that you can easily just drive around and stop when you see one that looks interesting. Many are along three major thoroughfares, Niagara Parkway, Niagara Stone Road and Lakeshore Road.

Some tasting rooms charge a small fee, some don't. I was offered complimentary sips at several.

Niagara-on-the-Lake holds an important place in Canadian history. Founded in the late 18th century, it became the capital of what was then known as Upper Canada in 1792. It was on the front lines during the War of 1812, as headquarters for the British Army, and was burned by US troops in 1813. The town's National Heritage District includes more than 100 buildings that date to 1859.

The Niagara Historical Society maintains a museum at 43 Castlereagh Street, and walking tours are available. The heritage district, which comprises the downtown, includes a lively main street, Queen Street, packed with interesting small shops.

If you're planning a visit in November, for C$44.25 (US$44.38) you can buy a pass for the annual "Taste of the Season" event, which offers tastings and food-and-wine pairings at 28 wineries.

If you go

Niagara-on-the-lake: www.niagaraonthelake.com

Shaw festival: www.shawfest.com. Annual theater festival through late October.

Wine route planner: winecountryontario.ca/niagara-on-the-lake

Taste of the season: wineriesofniagaraonthelake.com/taste-the-season.

Touring pass: C$44.25 Canadian per person plus taxes, for use any Friday, Saturday or Sunday in November, 11am-5pm, for tastings and other events at 28 wineries in Niagara-on-the-Lake.

Icewine festival: wineriesofniagaraonthelake.com. Takes place in January 2013.

Niagara historical society museum: www.niagarahistorical.museum


 

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