CHINA’S most famous historical destinations include the terracotta warriors and the Great Wall. For nature, tourists head to the hills of Yunnan rather than cities near the eastern coast. Yet there are many destinations, within easy reach of Shanghai and Beijing, that combine a vital history with just enough nature to let you take a breather from urban life.

A long journey to Xi’an can be broken with a visit to Xuzhou, Jiangsu Province, where the small city’s own charms can be discovered. For example, the Xiang Yu Horse Training Grounds, where the air is scented with gingko biloba and papaya, is filled with winding stone passageways and picturesque courtyards. Visitors won’t need to jostle others while taking pictures because the views are obstructed only by butterflies.

Visible from the top of the training grounds are the mountains surrounding Xuzhou. These are the vistas Xiang Yu might have enjoyed over 2,000 years ago if his mind wasn’t too fixed on training horses for battle. From 206 BC to 202 BC, Xiang Yu of Chu Kingdomfought Liu Bang of Han Kingdom for mastery of then China. At his former training grounds, modern-day visitors can catch both a glimpse of the past and a panoramic view of the present.

It’s recommended to climb a mountain to enjoy the best panoramas in Xuzhou and one of the most accessible is Yunlong Mountain. Hikers can start their ascent at the intersection of Zhongshan Road S. and Heping Road, heading west on Zhongshan Road S. to the start of a path on the left after around 100 meters.

The trek up Yunlong Mountain can be confusing at first; it’s hard to know which path goes up and which twists back down. But once you’ve found your footing, the ascent is fairly straightforward and easily accomplished within an hour. At the top, visitors are rewarded with vistas of the surrounding peaks, and air imbued with a fragrant, woody scent.

The fragrance is due in part to the forested mountainsides and also to incense smouldering in the Xinghua Zen Buddhist Temple. Hikers can enter the temple by paying 5 yuan (78 US cents) which covers incense to offer at the shrine. Photography is not allowed, a rule monitored by talkative monks.

After conquering Yunlong Mountain, visitors can unwind at nearby Yunlong Park, a scenic area full of intriguing discoveries. There are 12 animal sculptures, each dedicated to a different sign in Chinese astrology, and the Museum of Chinese Fiddle Art, opened entirely in honor of Chinese fiddles, or huqin. Entrance to the museum is free.

Relaxing by Yunlong Park’s calm lake and listening to the sound of string instruments drift across the water is an enjoyable way to take a break from more hectic sightseeing. Fans of tranquil stretches of water will also want to add Yunlong Lake, which lies across from Yunlong Mountain, to the itinerary.

A more somber park experience awaits at the Memorial of the Huaihai Campaign. In recent history, the forces of Chiang Kai-shek and Mao Zedong fought a decisive campaign in the area around Xuzhou. The memorial is dedicated to those who lost their lives in the campaign.

The long walk up to the memorial may be a little hard on the knees, particularly if fresh from climbing Yunlong Mountain. But the reward is yet another stunning view, this time of the park grounds. Entrance to the Memorial of the Huaihai Campaign Park is free. The park entrance is by the intersection of Huaita Road E. and Jiefang Road S.

Heading out to the Xuzhou Han Culture Tourism Zone is highly recommended. The centrepiece here is the Chu King’s Mausoleum, an otherworldly underground tomb dug directly into the side of a hill. Inside the dim, underground passageway, condensation drips from the low ceilings and the voices of microphone-wearing tour guides echo in the darkness.

The Chu King was interred along with his concubine and the accoutrements of daily life, including mirrors, jade pillows, and even copper cash to spend in the afterlife. These goods were buried in specific chambers underground. The separate chambers and their contents are introduced by signs in English and Chinese. The Chu King buried here is Liu Wu, believed to have died in 154 BC.

A few hundred meters west of the mausoleum lie Xuzhou’s very own terracotta warriors. Though they don’t stand up to the Xi’an warriors in terms of size or scale, they make an interesting adjunct to the underground tomb. An exhibit near the warriors details the various sites of terracotta warriors throughout China.

Aside from the underground tomb and the terracotta warriors, one of the best things to do in this park is to simply enjoy the natural setting. East of central Xuzhou, the park is built on acres of grounds and is as ideal for an afternoon stroll as it is for viewing the tombs of ancient emperors.

While Xiang Yu’s horse training grounds stand in central Xuzhou, his rival, Liu Bang, who was born near Xuzhou, has his place at the Liu Ancestral Hall in the Xuzhou Han Culture Tourism Zone. Liu Bang, of Han, won the contest for China and so it is his descendants that line this hall. The Han dynasty reigned from 206 BC to AD 220.

From the Chu-Han wars to the Battle of Huaihai, Xuzhou has often been central to the fate of China. Visitors to the city will find plenty of opportunity to trace the arc of China’s past, as well as to enjoy mountain walks and a serene environment, just a step away from the urban center.

How to get there

Xuzhou is on the train line between Shanghai and Beijing. From Shanghai, fast trains reach Xuzhou in less than 3 hours. Most fast trains to Xuzhou stop at Xuzhou East Station. Xuzhou is also served by Xuzhou Guanyin Airport but at the time of writing there were no direct flights between Shanghai and Xuzhou.

Where to stay

Xuzhou has an extensive range of accommodation. The Crowne Plaza Xuzhou Dalong Lake is in the new area of Xuzhou, and is set beside the picturesque lake. While still in central Xuzhou, this hotel is away from the most bustling area of the city (email reservations: res@cpxuzhou.com).

New Century Grand Hotel is another excellent choice, set beside Yunlong Lake. Adjacent to the hotel are Binhu Gardens and Binhu Park, perfect for an evening stroll beside the lake. The New Century Grand Hotel (xuzhou.newcenturygrandhotel.com) is close to attractions such as Yunlong Mountain and the Xiang Yu Horse Training Grounds.

Travelers on a tight budget can take advantage of no-frills chains such as Home Inn and Jinjiang Inn. The Jinjiang Inn on Sudi Road N. (Tel: 0516-8563-5588) is well-reviewed and is within easy reach of Yunlong Park and the downtown area.

Wherever you choose to stay, it’s good practice to take advantage of Xuzhou’s beautiful lakes and parks; stay near one to see the best side of the city. There is a cluster of accommodation around the central train station, but this noisy, crowded area is best avoided.

Traveling tips

English is not widely spoken in Xuzhou so if your group lacks a Mandarin speaker, consider printing in English and Chinese the addresses of your hotel and places you plan to visit. The best time to visit Xuzhou is March through to April and September to October when temperatures are the most pleasant.