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Zhejiang road trip is full of surprises
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DENG Ruonan is editor-in-chief of a Shanghai-based Chinese travel and hotel magazine Hotel Magazine. She has no interest in popular scenic spots, preferring to hop in her car and explore the wilderness. “Views are not listed in Chinese tourist guide books, just where you can stay,” she said.
My favorite destination in China is Kekexili, a nature reserve in Qinghai Province known as one of the last remaining habitats for Tibetan antelope and wild yak. Lying at an average elevation of 5,000 meters above sea level, the reserve is also known as an no-man’s land area due to its rugged terrain. This makes it more appealing because few people take the time and effort to explore the area.
The most breathtaking destination I’ve ever been to is Maotai Town in southwest China’s Guizhou Province. The moment I arrived at the foot of Maotai Town I was intoxicated by the mellow smell of liquor. The town is home to the famous liquor Maotai, but it’s also a historical site. The Red Army maneuvered across the Chishui River here four times in 1935.
The view in Maotai can not be found elsewhere. The winding Chuishui River reflects the verdant mountains, but also appears red on occasion due to clay erosion.
To get away from hectic city life, I recommend a road trip off the beaten path in between Zhejiang and Fujian provinces. Drive pass Qiandao Lake and head south for about an hour to Longyou County in Quzhou City, Zhejiang Province. Here you will find a stretch of 24 unmarked grottoes hidden around Fenghuang Mountain. The caves have deep pools connected to the river that flows through the area.
After that, drive southwest to Changshan County, where the first Global Stratotype Section and Point, also known as Huangnitang GSSP, was marked in China. The rocks here can be traced back to the Ordovician Period some 460 million years ago when the area was an ocean. A number of fossils have been discovered here.
Visit Qiuchuan Town where an ancient residence boasts 36 old wells, which may take some time and sharp eyes to find. Order a plate of the local noodles before leaving town. The chewy handmade noodles was given as tributes to the royal court starting in the Song Dynasty (AD 960-1279). It’s only available in a few restaurants in town.
Move on to Jianglang Mountain and hike to the top to gaze at the narrow valleys, lush greenery and Danxia landforms, which are similar to karst formations.
After that, take the ancient Xianxia Pass south of the mountain. Lying at the gateway from Zhejiang to Fujian, the fort here is where the rebel Huang Chao rose up against the Tang Dynasty (AD 607-918) from AD 878-884. Today, the four gates still remain and there is a 5km trail that snakes its way through a forest of bamboo.
Make your final stop in the sleepy town of Nianbadu, which has a history of more than 900 years. After Huang Chao opened up the Xianxia Pass, he set his troops in the town, which later transformed into a trading hub. The town has nine local dialects and various styles of architecture, indicating its former prosperity when merchants traveled here from nearby areas to trade goods.
The town is well preserved, highlighted by its Confucius Temple, which features myriad delicate wooden carvings, reliefs and paintings.
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