Taiwan stinky tofu pleases the palate
Print Edition
The smellier, the better. That’s the rule in Taiwan for stinky tofu, a popular fermented snack that assaults the nose but pleases the palate.
The scent, a cross between burning garbage and body odor, wafts through the narrow alleys of street markets on the island, overwhelming the tang of fruit stalls and the smoky aroma of barbecue stands. But with long queues at any given stinky tofu outlet, there’s no denying its appeal.
Stewed, braised or deep-fried, the dish can come garnished with pickled cabbage, bamboo shoots, “thousand-year-old” eggs or congealed duck blood.
“It’s hard on the nose but easy on the tongue,” said Chen, the operator of a small stand in Shenkeng Laojie (Old Street) on the east of Taipei.
Chen makes a grilled version doused in a chunky, salty sauce and served with vegetables.
Enjoyed under the awning of a temple next door, the soft white curds melt in the mouth like pudding as the tell-tale whiff races up the nose.
For a different experience, try Yong Feng Dage Restaurant in the night market in central Taipei. Its crispy skin tofu has a crackling consistency surrounding the chewy, cakey goodness within.
Each cube has an “injection” of soy sauce that gushes out with every bite.
The secret of the stink is the fermentation process that can take several days to a week. Restaurants are fiercely protective of their recipes for the brine that can consist of anything from Chinese cabbage and tea leaves to meat, shrimp or milk.
Jiaziyuan Restaurant in New Taipei City, which serves nearly 20 varieties of stinky tofu, adheres to a strict vegan regime, using mountain spring water as the marinade base and Chinese medicinal herbs for flavouring.
Co-owner Chen Laihao says stinky tofu is rich in beneficial bacteria akin to those in yogurt. One of her bestsellers, a hot peppercorn soup variety, features rich, doughy tofu in a broth of peppers, ginger, mushrooms and black beans.
Tales of the origins of stinky tofu are as diverse as the dish itself. But most varieties are thought to have roots in China’s mainland, according to the SoyInfo Center in California.
- About Us
- |
- Terms of Use
- |
-
RSS - |
- Privacy Policy
- |
- Contact Us
- |
- Shanghai Call Center: 962288
- |
- Tip-off hotline: 52920043
- 沪ICP证：沪ICP备05050403号-1
- |
- 互联网新闻信息服务许可证：31120180004
- |
- 网络视听许可证：0909346
- |
- 广播电视节目制作许可证：沪字第354号
- |
- 增值电信业务经营许可证：沪B2-20120012
Copyright © 1999- Shanghai Daily. All rights reserved.Preferably viewed with Internet Explorer 8 or newer browsers.
