Chinese congee seduced by maritime New Zealand wines
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Feeling down, under the weather or just out of sort? In the west, one tried and true curative solution is chicken soup. Nutritious and emotionally uplifting, chicken soup has long been an essential tonic for what ails us. In China, one may argue this vital health and well-being role is equally ably filled by congee.
The first definitive written accounts of congee date back to the Han Dynasty (202 BC-AD 220), but most Chinese food historians believe that congee dates back to at least the Zhou Dynasty (1046-256 BC) over 3,000 years ago.
My first encounter with congee was nearly four decades ago when I arrived on the shores of Taiwan. From night market stands to opulent seafood restaurants, one could always find congee or xifan (wet rice) as the locals call it. More often than not, hunks of locally grown sweet potato were served in large bowl of xifan that was surrounded by a host of local seafood, meat and mountain vegetable delights. The Cantonese may make the most famous expression, but many regional Chinese cuisines have their own take on congee.
This week, let鈥檚 have some fun and pair wines with China鈥檚 quintessential comfort food. The principal ingredient in congees is rice, a neutral food that can be successfully paired with an enormous range of wines.
Therefore, the auxiliary ingredients or side dishes become determinative factors when choosing vino partners. One style of white wine pairs beautifully with the various kinds of seafood, pork, chicken and pickled sides often found in or accompanying congee.
Chardonnay is arguably the noblest of all white wine varieties; however, in 1991, DNA fingerprinting performed on Chardonnay revealed that one of the grape鈥檚 ancestors was the pedestrian commoner Gouais Blanc.
The other parent was from the Pinot family, most likely Pinot Noir. Both grapes were widely planted in northeast France in the Middle Ages, and Chardonnay as a distinct variety started making a name for itself about a thousand years ago in or around the more northern reaches of present day Burgundy. Today, the grape is cultivated in many, if not most, of the world鈥檚 leading wines regions.
In the late 20th century, Chardonnay became so successful and over-exposed that consumers started turning against the grape. In the developed US market, the ABC (anything but Chardonnay) campaign proliferated. This was unfortunate as many of the best white wines in the US and around the world were and continue to be based on the Chardonnay grape. Pertinent to congee, many New and Old World regions make ideal Chardonnay companions with one excellent example coming from the Southern Hemisphere.
Hawke鈥檚 Bay
Scenically situated on the east coast of New Zealand鈥檚 northern island, Hawke鈥檚 Bay is oldest and second largest wine region in the country. Missionaries from the Society of Mary in 1851 were the first to plant vines in Hawke鈥檚 Bay. In common with Catholic missionaries worldwide, they planted vines as wine, which was an essential part of the holy sacrament ceremony. The Mission, as the winery became known, continues to produce wines today including some elegant and expressive Chards.
By the start of the 20th century additional pioneering wineries including Te Mata, Vidal and other producers began making wines from German, French and Spanish varieties. In the 1970s, the use of more advanced technology and an emphasis on varieties that best suited the region鈥檚 soils and climate began a new age of premium wine production.
The climate of Hawke鈥檚 Bay is remarkably similar to Bordeaux with maritime influences and a long growing season with low to moderate rainfall.
Most of the soils are free draining with natural low fertility. These factors make the region most suitable for the French red wine grapes Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah. In fact, Hawke鈥檚 Bay produces the gross majority of New Zealand Merlot, Cabs and Syrah. Good Sauvignon Blanc wines. The most important white grape is our congee-loving Chardonnay.
Hawke鈥檚 Bay Chardonnays typically well-balanced wines with an abundance of fruit and ample acidity. The best examples have palate-pleasing elegant yellow fruit flavors, good complexity and persistence. Compared to some New World Chardonnays, Hawke鈥檚 Bay Chards tend to be less oaky and fresher.
Three of the best Hawke鈥檚 Bay Chardonnay producers are Mission Estate, Te Mata Estate and Sileni Estates. Majestically situated on the Taradale Hills, Mission Estate is one of the most beautiful New Zealand wineries. Despite being the oldest maker of wines in New Zealand, the winery is incorporating some of the most advanced technology to make wines.
Some of my favorite Hawke鈥檚 Bay Chardonnays are made by Te Mata, a winery that has the distinction of being the oldest commercial winery in New Zealand.
Mission Estate first made wines, but Te Mata first produced wines for commercial markets. The elegant Elston Chardonnay is one of New Zealand鈥檚 finest white wines. Te Mata Woodthorpe and Estate Chardonnays are also excellent wines of considerable character.
Additional fine producers of Hawke鈥檚 Bay Chardonnay wines available in Shanghai are Vidal Estate, Craggy Range, Villa Maria and Trinity Hill. When in need of the ultimate comfort experience serve your Hawke鈥檚 Bay Chards nicely chilled, or about 10 degree Celsius, and your congee piping-hot.
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