HUAIHAI Road M. is probably Shanghai's most visited road, embodying the vigor and essence of the city. Formerly named Avenue Joffre in the 1930s, this boulevard was well known in the Far East and reputed as "Oriental Avenue des Champs-Elysees." In 1902, platane trees were introduced on Avenue Joffre and still grace the road and other pars of the city.

Along with the lovely old villas and art-deco apartment buildings, Huaihai Road catered to the affluent residents and this is where the good life was to be found. A pleasant Sunday stroll starts from the intersection with Wukang Road where the landmark Normandie Apartment is situated and all the way to Huating Road.

Many stylish old apartment buildings and villas along the western section of Huaihai Road M. still retain their original character.

There is no denying these old blocks stand out like jewels amidst their modern counterparts. From the Soong Ching Ling memorial residence to the American Consulate-General and the French Consul-General's residence, there are many graceful spots to discover and cafes and eateries to relax in.


Discover a hidden gem

The Boonna Cafe is a hidden gem tucked almost out of view along Huaihai Road M. The popular eatery has managed to create a trendy, vibrant environment with a homely-community feel making it a great place to come and relax. The neighborhood residents regularly visit the cafe, particularly at lunch time when pasta, salads and a range of fresh sandwiches are on offer. For a dose of comfort food, home-made desserts, including chocolate brownie and cheesecake, are available. Drinks menu changes to suit the season. Right now a range of refreshing iced teas is available. There is also a range of summer cocktails including the popular Chichi, made of coconut, pineapple, lemon juice and vodka, for 30 yuan (US$4.39). Visitors can sit inside where an ever-changing noticeboard decorates the side wall and can be covered in anything from children's artwork, to photos or art done by customers themselves. Or you can grab a book from the cafe's bookshelf and sit outside in a sheltered courtyard.

Opening hours: 7am-midnight

Address: 1690 Huaihai Rd M.

Tel: 6433-0835


A lane haunted by history

No. 1610 on Huaihai Road M is a lane called "Yi Cun" which has a group of eight Spanish villas. Building No. 2, simple and clean, was once the home of Chiang Kai-shek's son and daughter-in-law, Chiang Ching-kuo and Faina. Ching-kuo's mother was Chiang Kai-shek's first wife. Ching-kuo was sent to Moscow to study at the age of 15 and stayed there for 12 years, where he met and fell in love with a Russian girl, Faina. They married in 1935. The couple had three sons and one daughter. The family left Shanghai for Taipei before 1949 and Ching-kuo succeeded his father in 1978. Chiang Ching-kuo died in 1988 and the successive deaths of their sons made Faina alone in her last years and took their toll on her health.

Address: 1610 Huaihai Rd M.


Say Hello to everything Kitty

The Kitty House is obviously meant for girls who adore the cute cuddly cat and features a houseful of Hello Kitty items including those limited edition products you hardly find anywhere else. The entire store uses the signature pink color that little girls can't resist. Browsing around the shop, the Hello Kitty logo adorns products from toys, purses, stickers and pen sets to girl accessories, furniture items, clothing and more, with prices from 18 yuan to more than 8,000 yuan. It seems if an item can maintain an image of Hello Kitty, then a Hello Kitty version of that item has been produced. The exclusive new bling bling series is the highlight, with a collection of knickknacks decorated by crystals.

Opening hours: 10am-10pm

Address: 1298 Huaihai Rd M.

Tel: 6431-3848


Learn to play the guqin

A trip to You Huang Li takes you out of modern-day Shanghai and into ancient Chinese culture. Nestled in the historic setting of a 1930s building, culture lovers come together to revive traditional music instrument, the guqin. The club was formed about three years ago by a small group who were trying to practice the seven-stringed instrument and decided to get together to talk about culture. Since then, about 1,500 people have joined. The appearance of guqin at the Beiijing Olympics opening ceremony last year has renewed interest in the more than 3,000-year-old instrument. As a member you are offered a one-hour guqin lesson once a week. You Huang Li has five teachers who run classes every evening and each weekend depending on your schedule. At any time members can come and practice or just sit and listen to the music while drinking tea. Those who don't speak Mandarin can come and learn guqin and the language. Instruction costs about 1,000 yuan for 12 classes, with courses running over three months with 12 lessons or over six months with 24 lessons. One-on-one classes are also available and private coaching is offered by professional guqin performer Qiao Shan. On some weekends the group holds mini-concerts and other cultural activities.

Opening hours: 10am?9pm

Address: 1801 Huaihai Rd M.

Tel: 6437-4111


The Lincoln Apartments

Walk eastward from the intersection with Hunan Road, opposite the Shanghai Library, and you will find an elegant four-story apartment block constructed in 1931. The present color scheme is of light brown brick combined with white and gray plaster applique and ornamentation. As in most of the major apartment buildings in this area, the tenants were mostly foreign, with the Lincoln having more than the usual number of French tenants. During the period when the Japanese troops invaded China, a central figure in the Japanese puppet regime, Zhou Fohai, used one of the apartments in the building as a love nest for his mistress, the actress-singer Xiao Linghong. The story of Zhou and his mistress certainly adds some color to this block still standing on the Huaihai Road. These days, the first floor of the apartment block is a line of mini shops and cafes, although some of them are closed due to on-going construction work.


Affordable Italian treats

The neighborhood knows it's on to a good thing with La Casbah. It's probably one of the cheapest places in Shanghai to get Italian-style pizza and pasta, and it even delivers for free. Pizzas vary in price, starting at 28 yuan for the classics such as margarita and Hawaiian, through to 38 yuan for seafood, meat and vegetable toppings. You can also create your own topping if you can't find quite what you are after on the menu. Traditional pastas, including spaghetti bolognese and lasagna, range in price from 36 yuan to 40 yuan. If it's not Italian you're after, grilled sandwiches and a range of snacks including croissants, mini octopus and a variety of soups, are available. The dessert menu is also quite extensive ranging from Italian favorite Tiramisu, to muffins, cakes and flavored mousse. The venue can only seat a few so making use of the free delivery service would be a good option.

Opening hours: 8am?10pm, Monday?Thursday;8am?11pm, Friday?Sunday

Address: 1554 Huaihai Rd M.

Tel: 6471-2821


Add a touch of luxury to your home

Stepping into Strong Casa is like setting foot in a highly fashionable, prestigious living area. The first floor of this art-deco style furniture store showcases the company's stand-out pieces. Elaborate chandeliers hang above finely polished tables, adorned with beautiful candle holders and cutlery. Elegant lounge suites are covered in the latest colors and patterns. On the second floor there are more neutral collections and an extensive range of beds, bedroom ware, and decorations and ornaments for the home. The company's brand was started in 1998. It is registered in Italy with the goods sold in China. Aimed at high-end shoppers, the pieces vary as customers can have furniture custom made or choose different colors or fabrics on showroom items.

Opening hours: 10am?6pm

Address: 1298 Huaihai Rd M.

Tel: 6471-2322