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Fun fashion week in the city
By Yang Di, Fei Lai and Andrea O'Neil |
October 28, 2011, Friday
|
Print Edition
Print Edition
THE much-anticipated Vivienne Westwood runway show opened Shanghai Fashion Week, which ended yesterday. The legendary designer's first-ever show in Asia featured striking creations that were impeccably crafted and fitted, dazzling the Shanghai audience and fashionistas.
During the week, young fashion designers from home and abroad showcased their latest collections inside Fuxing Park (the main venue) and some of them have created clothes garnering rave reviews.
Judy Hua
Couture fashion label Judy Hua took a bold approach this time by using various bright colors such as aqua blue, lime green and purple. A black night dress introduced designer Hua's 2012 spring/summer collection show on October 22.
With a theme of "Fish in the Forest," the show reflected the current living conditions of people, who feel like fish swimming against the tide. The change of colors implied people's lost soul in a colorful and busy world, just like a fish without water.
While maintaining her poetic touch, the collection included cool, subtle and simple details. The last piece, a wedding dress taking the shape of a mermaid, was an unforgettable conclusion to the show.
Helen Lee
Helen Lee, one of the earliest homegrown independent designers, impressed the audience with her 2012 spring/summer ready-to-wear collection dubbed "Porcelain Butterfly."
Her latest collection once again confirmed Lee's status as a solid player in the Chinese fashion scene with her ever-evolving skills and ideas. Her runway show on October 23 seemed more about renewal.
The spring/summer looks were fresh and breezy, with an exciting blend of style and content. It focused on nature and interpersonal relationships using ceramic artist Caroline Cheng's porcelain butterflies as the major image. The main colors were romantic pink, light green and dark green, expressing the excitement of spring paired with the calm of a summer evening.
"I gained inspiration from the natural beauty of the Chinese landscape, pure air and flowers," Lee said.
Lee has incorporated Cheng's ceramic butterflies in a variety of innovative ways. The ceramic pieces adorn detachable collars, sleeves and vests, creating pieces that are as much sculptural accessory as they are clothing. She also converted the butterflies into graphic patterns and printed them on soft light fabrics like silk and chiffon.
"The prints maintain the artistic effect of the ceramics but solve the problem of weight and breakage," she said.
The collection was composed of really feminine clothes relevant for today, with real quality in the making and interesting cuts.
Beyond the pure style, her latest designs explored the depths of contemporary art while making playful clothes. The Shanghainese designer continues to challenge herself.
Gudrun Sj?dén
A kaleidoscope of jewel-bright color and dizzying varieties of pattern burst onto Swedish veteran designer Gudrun Sj?dén's catwalk show last Saturday afternoon, which paid homage to her 35 years in the industry with a retrospective "Anniversary" collection. The hippy-ethnic styling harked back to Sj?dén's first collections in the late 1970s, with kaftans, ethnic prints, scarves, layering and oversized accessories all heavily featuring.
The clothes were highly wearable and female friendly, with not a high heel seen in the dozens of looks presented. The styling brought to mind Marni woman, if she were to don a pair of John Lennon specs and backpack through Europe, Africa and Asia. An emphasis on the environment was clear in the collection's natural fabrics and the real cabbages models wore as hats. Chinese style heavily influenced the collection's blue-hued clothes. The label used only Chinese models in its Shanghai show, while the styling remained identical to an earlier Stockholm show.
Decoster
This edition of Shanghai Fashion Week to Ziggy Chen, the head designer of Decoster, can be special.
After turning down SFW's invitation to present for several times, he finally stood on its stage and presenting his new high-end line Decoster Concept for the first time.
Unlike Decoster, the new line is not commercial at all. It is in more favor of self-expression. Taking natural materials including linen, Chen's design is highlighted by various one-pieces. Here, men wear long skirts which enjoy the same elegance like woman. Here, women wear no more high-heels but simple slippers to accompany the flowing dress.
The whole collection invokes people's pursuit of originality.
"The new line is exceptionally welcomed by architects and designers," Chen says. "I hope it will be accepted by more and more people."
Being avant-garde, the new line will be available in both Shanghai and Beijing next year.
During the week, young fashion designers from home and abroad showcased their latest collections inside Fuxing Park (the main venue) and some of them have created clothes garnering rave reviews.
Judy Hua
Couture fashion label Judy Hua took a bold approach this time by using various bright colors such as aqua blue, lime green and purple. A black night dress introduced designer Hua's 2012 spring/summer collection show on October 22.
With a theme of "Fish in the Forest," the show reflected the current living conditions of people, who feel like fish swimming against the tide. The change of colors implied people's lost soul in a colorful and busy world, just like a fish without water.
While maintaining her poetic touch, the collection included cool, subtle and simple details. The last piece, a wedding dress taking the shape of a mermaid, was an unforgettable conclusion to the show.
Helen Lee
Helen Lee, one of the earliest homegrown independent designers, impressed the audience with her 2012 spring/summer ready-to-wear collection dubbed "Porcelain Butterfly."
Her latest collection once again confirmed Lee's status as a solid player in the Chinese fashion scene with her ever-evolving skills and ideas. Her runway show on October 23 seemed more about renewal.
The spring/summer looks were fresh and breezy, with an exciting blend of style and content. It focused on nature and interpersonal relationships using ceramic artist Caroline Cheng's porcelain butterflies as the major image. The main colors were romantic pink, light green and dark green, expressing the excitement of spring paired with the calm of a summer evening.
"I gained inspiration from the natural beauty of the Chinese landscape, pure air and flowers," Lee said.
Lee has incorporated Cheng's ceramic butterflies in a variety of innovative ways. The ceramic pieces adorn detachable collars, sleeves and vests, creating pieces that are as much sculptural accessory as they are clothing. She also converted the butterflies into graphic patterns and printed them on soft light fabrics like silk and chiffon.
"The prints maintain the artistic effect of the ceramics but solve the problem of weight and breakage," she said.
The collection was composed of really feminine clothes relevant for today, with real quality in the making and interesting cuts.
Beyond the pure style, her latest designs explored the depths of contemporary art while making playful clothes. The Shanghainese designer continues to challenge herself.
Gudrun Sj?dén
A kaleidoscope of jewel-bright color and dizzying varieties of pattern burst onto Swedish veteran designer Gudrun Sj?dén's catwalk show last Saturday afternoon, which paid homage to her 35 years in the industry with a retrospective "Anniversary" collection. The hippy-ethnic styling harked back to Sj?dén's first collections in the late 1970s, with kaftans, ethnic prints, scarves, layering and oversized accessories all heavily featuring.
The clothes were highly wearable and female friendly, with not a high heel seen in the dozens of looks presented. The styling brought to mind Marni woman, if she were to don a pair of John Lennon specs and backpack through Europe, Africa and Asia. An emphasis on the environment was clear in the collection's natural fabrics and the real cabbages models wore as hats. Chinese style heavily influenced the collection's blue-hued clothes. The label used only Chinese models in its Shanghai show, while the styling remained identical to an earlier Stockholm show.
Decoster
This edition of Shanghai Fashion Week to Ziggy Chen, the head designer of Decoster, can be special.
After turning down SFW's invitation to present for several times, he finally stood on its stage and presenting his new high-end line Decoster Concept for the first time.
Unlike Decoster, the new line is not commercial at all. It is in more favor of self-expression. Taking natural materials including linen, Chen's design is highlighted by various one-pieces. Here, men wear long skirts which enjoy the same elegance like woman. Here, women wear no more high-heels but simple slippers to accompany the flowing dress.
The whole collection invokes people's pursuit of originality.
"The new line is exceptionally welcomed by architects and designers," Chen says. "I hope it will be accepted by more and more people."
Being avant-garde, the new line will be available in both Shanghai and Beijing next year.
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