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Less means more in enclave's smart, intimate Venetian eatery
By Aubrey Buckingham |
May 10, 2009, Sunday
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Print Edition
THE argument in this era of user-generated content seems to be thus - the "right" opinion is determined by popular votes on food blogs and user reviews but any dissent against this collective is considered high treason.
The ultimate purpose of food reviews is usually tricky to pin down. If you see the objective of reviews as being pats on the back for jobs well done, then it is clear why drawing negative conclusions from what gets put on the plate can sting.
Yes, tastes can vary, but there is still an underlying band of quality that can be applied across all cuisines. One need not spend half a year living with the hill tribes of the Karen to understand if a bowl of thistles is appetizing or not.
Still, if you read this page for the latest goings-on in the world of food and beverage, this is probably boring you and we shall begin the next stage of proceedings immediately.
I have often lamented the lack of proper fare within the Taikang Road enclave. In fact, I have often lamented the entire project from the get go - how would you like to see your homes turned into shop houses? Whatever the case, a lack of proper kitchens along the hippie-boho streets makes for cookie cutter cafes and, frankly, dismal fare.
It was a tough sell getting me back there but the word from people whose opinions I value is that Bacaro is somewhat different. As usual, it was a little tough to find and I nearly stumbled into someone else's living room at first attempt.
When eventually I spied the right sign and walked down the right alley, I found a smart, casual Italian eatery that was doing okay for a Tuesday night. The tight, 20-seater space was intimately lit and there was just enough staff to buzz about and swoop in when needed.
The menu is Venetian which is a nice change from the ubiquitous International Italian fare most of the local trattorias are guilty of. In fact any sort of regional restaurant gets an automatic tick in my book.
It also helps if the fare isn't just middling. The beef carpaccio (75 yuan/US$11) was adequate and well-dressed. It didn't leap off the plate with sparkling freshness but it sufficed. The gratinated mussels (59 yuan) were far more interesting and, more importantly, were a steal in these times of uncertainty. The baked shellfish was the seafood equivalent of having your cake and eating it.
Hearty and meaty
The pasta dishes presented a conundrum. The braised beef sauce on the maltagliati (75 yuan) - a rustic, ribbon pasta - was hearty and meaty, but the pasta itself was overdone and mushy. The same went for the pumpkin ravioli (79 yuan) which had a lovely sweetness balanced with the rocket pesto but suffered from the same overcooked dumpling. It was during a conversation I had in Italy that I realized what we're still missing here - in Europe, al dente is taken for granted. Here we celebrate it like the second coming.
Main courses were bog standard but exactly what was called for - grilled meats and seafood. Three Australian lamb chops and a side of spinach for 168 yuan may not be peanuts but it certainly is money well spent for a simple dinner.
It is only when dining in large groups that I try pudding (shame on me, I know) and both the panna cotta and tiramisu were terrific.
Tiramisu may be terribly overdone in Shanghai but the general standard is not very high; here at Bacaro the sweet was suitably spongy. The panna cotta was also firm and milky and was divine on the palate.
Sometimes one doesn't need a burley ego and a wild concept - just a tidy restaurant and solid cooking. Bacaro may not be the most popular show in town but it does a good job for those who know how to see it.
Address: No. 8, 155 Jianguo Rd M.
Tel: 6473-0774
The ultimate purpose of food reviews is usually tricky to pin down. If you see the objective of reviews as being pats on the back for jobs well done, then it is clear why drawing negative conclusions from what gets put on the plate can sting.
Yes, tastes can vary, but there is still an underlying band of quality that can be applied across all cuisines. One need not spend half a year living with the hill tribes of the Karen to understand if a bowl of thistles is appetizing or not.
Still, if you read this page for the latest goings-on in the world of food and beverage, this is probably boring you and we shall begin the next stage of proceedings immediately.
I have often lamented the lack of proper fare within the Taikang Road enclave. In fact, I have often lamented the entire project from the get go - how would you like to see your homes turned into shop houses? Whatever the case, a lack of proper kitchens along the hippie-boho streets makes for cookie cutter cafes and, frankly, dismal fare.
It was a tough sell getting me back there but the word from people whose opinions I value is that Bacaro is somewhat different. As usual, it was a little tough to find and I nearly stumbled into someone else's living room at first attempt.
When eventually I spied the right sign and walked down the right alley, I found a smart, casual Italian eatery that was doing okay for a Tuesday night. The tight, 20-seater space was intimately lit and there was just enough staff to buzz about and swoop in when needed.
The menu is Venetian which is a nice change from the ubiquitous International Italian fare most of the local trattorias are guilty of. In fact any sort of regional restaurant gets an automatic tick in my book.
It also helps if the fare isn't just middling. The beef carpaccio (75 yuan/US$11) was adequate and well-dressed. It didn't leap off the plate with sparkling freshness but it sufficed. The gratinated mussels (59 yuan) were far more interesting and, more importantly, were a steal in these times of uncertainty. The baked shellfish was the seafood equivalent of having your cake and eating it.
Hearty and meaty
The pasta dishes presented a conundrum. The braised beef sauce on the maltagliati (75 yuan) - a rustic, ribbon pasta - was hearty and meaty, but the pasta itself was overdone and mushy. The same went for the pumpkin ravioli (79 yuan) which had a lovely sweetness balanced with the rocket pesto but suffered from the same overcooked dumpling. It was during a conversation I had in Italy that I realized what we're still missing here - in Europe, al dente is taken for granted. Here we celebrate it like the second coming.
Main courses were bog standard but exactly what was called for - grilled meats and seafood. Three Australian lamb chops and a side of spinach for 168 yuan may not be peanuts but it certainly is money well spent for a simple dinner.
It is only when dining in large groups that I try pudding (shame on me, I know) and both the panna cotta and tiramisu were terrific.
Tiramisu may be terribly overdone in Shanghai but the general standard is not very high; here at Bacaro the sweet was suitably spongy. The panna cotta was also firm and milky and was divine on the palate.
Sometimes one doesn't need a burley ego and a wild concept - just a tidy restaurant and solid cooking. Bacaro may not be the most popular show in town but it does a good job for those who know how to see it.
Address: No. 8, 155 Jianguo Rd M.
Tel: 6473-0774
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