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Stinky tofu

THIS soybean curd is known for its strong odor - described as that of rotten meat - that comes from the process of fermentation. Its flavor, if you have the courage to try, is rich with a nice balance of salty and umami.

Chinese stinky tofu was created by chance. It is said that during one hot summer in the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911), Wang Zhihe, a scholar who failed the imperial exam, decided to open a tofu shop in Beijing. But he worried that his tofu would spoil in the heat and become inedible. Hence, he preserved it in a jar with some salt water, but forgot to remove it until winter.

When he reopened the jar, the tofu smelled putrid and was gray-green with long mold hairs. Wang was thrifty and didn't want to waste it, so he tried it and found it delicious.

Stinky tofu varies around China. In places like Shanghai, Hong Kong and Taiwan, it is usually deep fried and served with chili sauce. Part of the offensive odor has been removed during frying and is covered by a hot and spicy sauce. Hence, it's recommended for beginners.

In Ningbo, it is usually steamed together with salted meat and shrimp. The smell, mixing sour and mold, usually can be smelled within a radius of 10 to 20 meters. Many have been known to regurgitate after eating it for the first time.

In Beijing, it is known as choudoufuru, a preserved tofu soaked in brine, with a dark green color and strong acrid smell; it's bitter and yeasty. Due to its smooth and creamy texture, choudoufuru is often used to flavor congee and mantou (steamed bun).

It tastes a bit like blue cheese. The first bite is salty and strong. When it starts melting on your tongue, a milky and nutty flavor fills the mouth.

For fans of stinky food, the stronger the smell, the better the taste. All the smell comes from the brine, made from fermented milk, mustard green and other ingredients. The formula for brine is usually a closely guarded restaurant secret.

Here we sniff out some place to order stinky food:

Fengshouri

This restaurant features Ningbo cuisine. Stinky wax gourd with amaranth and pidan (thousand-year-old eggs) is a must-try.

Tel: 3635-6999

Address: 5/F, 1318 Sichuan Rd N.



Xinjishi

It's the place for authentic Shanghai cuisine. Try their stinky tofu.

Tel: 6336-4746

Address: Bldg 9, North Block, Xintiandi, 181 Taicang Rd



Tables at The Portman Ritz-Carlton Shanghai

They provide a wide range of stinky cheeses, from English Stilton to various washed rind and strong goat cheese.

Tel: 6279-8888

Address: 1376 Nanjing Rd W.




 

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