FUZHOU Road today is known as the destination to head for when you need to buy a book. But in the early 1900s, it was the red light district of Shanghai where visitors' minds were more on fulfilling carnal desires. It is not known why publishing houses and stationary merchants flocked to set up shop there, but the sheer number of these establishments has earned it the nickname "Shanghai's Book Market." In this issue, we bring you snippets of what else can be discovered along this street. So, before you pass over it for the glitzier Nanjing Road, do read on about a route which was ironically once called "Decency Street."

Yifu Theatre for opera fans

Tianchan Peking Opera Center's Yifu Theater is the place to go if you are curious or fascinated by traditional Chinese operas. Established in 1925, it was once crowned as "No. 1 Theater in the Far East." There was an often told tale that Peking Opera artists who don't perform in Tianchan cannot rise to fame. Today, the theater still features a host of traditional operas, including Peking Opera and Shaoxing Opera. The shows are usually performed by Shanghai Peking Opera Troupe and Shanghai Shaoxing Opera Company. The ticket price starts from 30 yuan (US$4.40) to 880 yuan.

Opening hours: 9:30am-8pm

Address: 701 Fuzhou Rd

Tel: 6322-5294


Shanghai Museum of Traditional Stationery

To know the written form of Mandarin well, you have to understand how the instruments of this craft were created. The writing system of Mandarin has not changed greatly since it was created. By learning the current script, you will be able to decipher what was written centuries ago. This museum, which opened in December 2008, centers on Zhou Hu Cheng brushes and Chao Su Gong ink stones. These are two old Chinese brands established well before the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911). When Shanghai gained prominence as a trading port in the late 1800s, the two brands were established here. Today, the museum houses more than a thousand artifacts of traditional Chinese stationery and calligraphy works by renowned masters. Although the exhibits do not have English captions, audio guides in Japanese, Korean, English and Mandarin are available free of charge. Additionally, you can also watch a video of how calligraphy works are conceived.

Opening hours: 9am-4pm (free admission)

Address: 429 Fuzhou Rd

Tel: 6328-1558


Foreign Language Bookstore's huge selection

What makes this four-story bookstore a stop that you should not skip on Fuzhou Road is its huge array of coffee table books. Its range covers topics such as photography, fine art, travel and fashion. And should you stop by at the right moment, you would be able to purchase a decent one for less than 90 yuan as promotions are held frequently. But if their 10,000 books aren't your cup of tea, you would be glad to know that they carry foreign magazines, newspapers and Japanese comics. With more than 30 different magazines available such as Gap Press and Volt, you should be able to find a periodical of your liking.

Opening hours: 9:30am-7pm

Address: 390 Fuzhou Rd

Tel: 2320-4994


Hamilton House's Shanghai style

At the intersection of Fuzhou and Jiangxi roads, the French brasserie and bar Hamilton House takes its name from the imposing Art Deco building in which it's located °?-- a 1934 Victor Sassoon building that was built as a hybrid office building and apartment house. In tune with the exterior, the restaurant brought Art Deco back into the beautifully restored interior, with typical stylistic touches, marble mosaic floor, and Old Shanghai style chairs. It is a casual, elegant restaurant combining an upscale dining area and cocktail lounge in one venue. The simple menu is neither bland nor too trendy. The French food is well-prepared, authentic and true to its style that matches the theme of the restaurant.The average price of dining here is about 250 to 350 yuan per person. Hamilton House transcends beyond just food. The very fine and exceptional ambience makes it a true place to escape from the hustle and bustle of the city.

Opening hours: 12pm-midnight

Address: 137 Fuzhou Rd

Tel: 6321-0586


Budget beds at Captain Youth Hostel

The Captain Youth Hostel on Fuzhou Road is the oldest in the city, having opened in 2001. Backpackers choose Captain for its clean rooms at a good price, superb location near the Bund, grand colonial exterior and rooftop bar and restaurant offering unbeatable views. The dormitories usually accommodate six or seven people per room and the 123 budget beds (55 yuan per person) are called "sailor bunks" catering well to the needs of the backpacker. However, there are another 20 standard rooms that meet the demands of higher needs customers, with the rates starting from 300 yuan to 1,200 yuan. The top floor bar is designed to resemble the insides of a boat. It features an outdoor terrace overlooking the Huangpu River and the Pudong skyline which is a big attraction of staying in this hostel. You can simply pass the time here, socializing with travelers, reading a book or having a bottle of beer. There are another two Captain hostels on Yan'an Road and Laoshan Road.

Address: 37 Fuzhou Rd

Tel: 6323-5053


Slip into Suzhou Cobblers shoes

Located at a little corner on the Bund, it is easy to miss this shop. But miss it not, for the products are a feast for the eyes. Merging traditional Suzhou embroidery techniques with modern styles, the shoes are great works of art. Owner Denise Huang, armed with a background in graphic art, applied the ancient needle craft to shoes and bags. And the results are vivid motifs of flowers and animals embroidered onto stout cotton fabric. The leather shoe soles are hand-sewn by craftsmen skilled in shoe making. Even if you are not intending to purchase a pair of shoes, do drop by to appreciate the intricate designs that are symbolic of the famed Suzhou embroidered brocades. Ladies Mary Jane's start from 450 yuan, men's shoes are 780 yuan and junior slip-ons are 398 yuan.

Opening hours: 10am-6:30pm

Address: Unit 101, 17 Fuzhou Rd

Tel: 6321-7087


Blue Shanghai White

An artsy ambience pervades as you enter Blue Shanghai White ¨? a beautiful boutique at the beginning of Fuzhou Road. Once inside, you'll discover ceramics and wood furniture inspired by classic blue and white porcelain. Hai Chen, one of China's foremost contemporary ceramicists, never stops giving traditional porcelain a modern and artistic edge. The product line is expanding, from various cups, bowls and plates to very creative hand cast and hand painted fine quality porcelain and aged wood furniture. The smaller items, from 60 yuan, are great options for gifts and the stylish but fine furniture brings the delicate highlights home. The exhibition space on the second floor is now showcasing artist Pan Jianfeng's ink drawings and installations. On display is an impressive line of Big Mouth Cup (hand-painted porcelain mugs) created by Pan. The idea comes from the Chinese porcelain enamel cup which is part of childhood memory. Each is unique and inspiring.

Opening hours: 10:30am-6:30pm

Address: Unit 103, 17 Fuzhou Rd

Tel: 6323-0856