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September 29, 2019

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2020 spring-summer goes bohemian style


Chloe, a Parisian institution founded in 1952, is widely credited with inventing the very concept of ready-to-wear. And since arriving at the house in 2017, designer Natacha Ramsay-Levi has honored that formidable legacy.

The talented France native has consistently towed the line between clothes that are sophisticated and wearable. With a slight masculine swagger, styles sported loose boyish pinstripe tailoring.

Silhouettes featuring ribbon neckties, flattened torsos and widened shoulders were a nod to the house’s signature 1970s style. Many of the looks had gentle contrasts. A fluid pleated ankle length silk gown in champagne, for example, was given a tomboy twist with black buckled leather boots.


Dior went back to nature in its Paris fashion week show on Tuesday with Greta Thunberg plaits and a garden-inspired collection that seemed to spring straight from the earth.

With climate change biting at the heels of the fashion industry, and the London shows hit by environmental protests, designer Maria Grazia Chiuri said she wanted to create clothes that “were not just about image but action.”

To do that she embraced the wild, with hemp gardening jackets and a series of stunning diaphanous dresses embroidered with wildflowers. These were not the dainty pink roses of Dior yore but sinuous survivors, thistles and other prickly customers flowering on stoney ground.


Bruno Sialelli, Lanvin’s fourth designer in four years, was in a relaxed and playful mood for his sophomore outing at the storied Parisian house.

Gently sloping geometry, both in the shoulder and in hats with exaggerated fisherman-style ear flaps, defined the quirky aesthetic.

By pure coincidence, the angular bend of umbrellas clutched by fashionistas in the front row as it rained exactly matched the geometry in the clothes — in a detail that was not lost on editors.

In contrast to the gray Parisian skies at the outdoor garden venue at Musee du Quai Branly, the clothes themselves — in pastel blue, deep carrot, champagne and pale yellow — were fashioned for spring.

Maison Margiela

Fashion icon John Galliano outdid himself this season with one of his quirkiest and most creative displays to date for Maison Margiela.

The collection’s starting point was the uniform styles of World Wars I and II, but it was encyclopedic at heart. Much like the sound track that flitted from Marlene Dietrich to electro, the 39-piece show defied definition.

Intentionally divergent unisex looks — nurses’ uniform, veiled hats, big black boots, double breasted woolen jackets, three-dimensional Renaissance capes and a male model in thigh-high stripper boots — had fashion insiders equally impressed and amused.

Only Galliano could pull off a collection that paired a nun’s habit with a voluminous biker jacket.


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