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October 17, 2010

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Chinese brands raise quality stakes

A friend of mine had a difficult time looking for an ideal qipao for his Parisian friend who visited Shanghai recently. They went to the City God's Temple, where only cheap, cheesy pieces are available; they paid a visit to fancy qipao boutiques along Changle Road, only to be told that they had to wait for at least two weeks to get a qiapo custom made, and his friend could never put herself into those tiny, "normal Chinese size" pieces on display in the store.

They are quite expensive too - a simple one costs at least 3,000 yuan (US$451).

Finally, and a bit ironically, they found the perfect qipao in Shanghai Tang, the most renowned Chinese luxury brand known to the Western world.

Over the years, with a clear, clever brand positioning, Shanghai Tang has developed itself into an international brand offering contemporary Chinese chic. Each season, it looks for inspirations from its home country, from the Forbidden City buildings to contemporary Chinese art. Its clothes are decent, wearable and a witty mix of Eastern and Western cultures.

Raphael le Masne de Chermont, executive chairman of Shanghai Tang, once told me that he is very proud of the brand's luxury products made by the Chinese.

At a recent fashion show in the city, Shanghai Tang launched the latest designs from its haute couture line, known as the Imperial Tailoring collection. By blending modern Chinese materials (fine silk, Mongolian cashmere, jade) and traditional Shanghainese tailoring skills, it is a collection showcasing top Chinese craftsmanship.

For long, perceptions of quality have haunted Chinese brands, making a joke out of everything from clothes to toys. However, things are changing these days, with more and more homegrown brands proudly announcing their top "made in China" quality.

Last month, Shang Xia, a new clothing and lifestyle brand conceived by Shanghai native designer Jiang Qiong'er and funded by the French luxury fashion group Hermes, opened its first boutique worldwide in the city's Hong Kong Plaza.

According to Jiang, everything of Shang Xia, or "up down" in Chinese, from design to materials, from manufacturing to marketing, remains local. In short, it is a Chinese brand developed in China by a Chinese team, produced in China based on traditional Chinese craftsmanship.

At the opening, guests were amazed by the techniques showcased by Chinese craftswomen, such as beading and cloth washing.

"This is an exciting day for the excellence and quality of Chinese craftsmanship," said Jiang at the ceremony.

The range of products include "Da Tian Di," zitan wood furniture embodying the concept of heaven and earth, "Bridge," a porcelain tea set at the core of Chinese hospitality, "Echo" eggshell porcelain and "Sculpture" hand-felted cashmere apparel. A cashmere cape is sold at over 8,000 yuan (US$1,204.4).




 

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