Energy of the young fires Milan
Print Edition
YOUTHFUL designers injected energy into the Milan Fashion Week menswear previews for next spring and summer, which wrapped up this week, carving out their own space to grow by their own rules.
Fendi
Fendi took an elegant deep-dive into wardrobe staples this season, with a playful twist on anagrams. Silvia Venturini Fendi collaborated with Italian artist Nico Vascellari on motifs for this collection that also indulged in anagram play with Roma-Amor, Fendi-Fiend as prints and graphic T-shirt elements.
To illustrate intrinsic duality, Vascellari created patterns out of FF-tongued snakes, clawed frogs and horned demons. The color palate was dark with undertones of fiendish red, or the classic Fendi brown-and-gold combo.
Mesh suit jackets gave an edge to polo shirts and straight trousers with sporty striped detailing down the sides. Leather anoraks were perforated, worn over the double-F-logo knitwear.
MSGM
Massimo Giorgetti’s MSGM collection for next spring and summer recalls his youthful 1980s summers in his native Adriatic coastal city of Rimini, a time, the designer said, when the beach crowds never abandoned their fashion sense.
And Giorgetti paid homage to classic looks of his adopted home in Milan. He said he wanted to emphasize his Italian roots while injecting a dose of 1980s energy.
He made the point literally, imitating colorful graphic logos from well-known Italian vitamin brands with the MSGM Milano logo on silky button-down shirts and a plethora of 1980s neon colors, bright florals and prints.
Giorgio Armani
Some menswear brands gently pushed the gender envelope this season. There were short-shorts, of the kind worn by the protagonist in the Oscar-winning Italian film “Call Me by Your Name,” ruffled shirts and jeweled necklaces.
Not so Giorgio Armani.
He anchored the collection in the timeless, masculine double-breasted jacket — but his was no stuffy affair. More formal versions had wide-notched lapels in fabrics, while washed-out linen numbers had a softness that suggested an evening seaside stroll, while sportier iterations came in printed silk.
Armani said he aimed to democratize the formal wardrobe staple, making it “wearable and accessible to everyone.”
Dolce&Gabbana
It was bring on the bling at Dolce&Gabbana, where the designing duo explored the brand’s DNA with turns by some of the brand’s historic models — Naomi Campbell, Monica Bellucci and Marpessa Hennink — decked out in sleek men’s suits.
Dolce and Gabbana created menswear looks that ran the brand’s gamut from suits for daytime that were still tightfitting and sexy to glammed-up versions in bright sequins. There was loud beach and resort wear that featured colorful bursts of prints or black-and-white logo plays, and geek looks in sandals with socks. To underscore the brand’s broad reach, the runway was filled with Millennial influencers, real-world royals and aristocrats, singers and performers but also ordinary people: elderly women, homosexual couples and a family.
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