Expansion heralds long live McQueen
By Miles Socha and Nina Jones |
December 12, 2010, Sunday
|
Print Edition
Print Edition
THE bumster is born again. As one of the signature and incendiary creations of the late Lee Alexander McQueen, the low-slung pants figure in the revamped McQ collection, which is now under the full control of the McQueen company following the expiration of its licensing pact with Italy's SINV SpA.
A women's pre-fall collection - recently unveiled in New York, Milan, London and Tokyo - is the first volley in an expansion drive for the five-year-old brand. Plans include a push into accessories and planting a bigger footprint in key markets such as America.
"We always felt there was scope to create a brand that was more accessible ? and a little more edgy," said Jonathan Akeroyd, president and chief executive officer at Alexander McQueen, part of Gucci Group. "We've got a strong ambition for it."
Expressed as wholesale volume rather than royalty income, McQ already represents about 20 percent of the firm's business, and should grow to 35 percent by 2012 given robust demand today for price-driven designer propositions, Akeroyd said in an exclusive interview. He declined to provide revenue figures.
"There still aren't that many luxury houses that have contemporary lines," he noted. "We've created quite a strong name and brand image."
The executive said prices for McQ - to be produced mainly in Asia, Turkey and Italy - have been shaved by about 25 percent, with jeans retailing at 1,540 yuan (US$231), dresses for 1,760 yuan, jackets from 2,640 yuan and printed T-shirts at 616 yuan.
McQ is currently sold in about 350 stores, primarily in the United Kingdom, Italy, Russia and Asia. There are five shop-in-shops ? including at I.T in Hong Kong ? plus three freestanding franchise boutiques in Kuala Lumpur, Shanghai and Hangzhou. Key wholesale clients include Selfridges, Harrods, Saks Fifth Avenue and Lane Crawford.
Although the business is currently tilted toward dresses and knits, with women's categories representing 75 percent of volume, Akeroyd said the range would be broader, and more casual, with the McQueen company fully in charge of product development.
The McQ pre-fall collection riffs on McQueen design signatures, such as men's tailoring and strict, structured silhouettes, spiked with some playful influences.
Complete fall-winter 2011 ranges for men and women, including jewelry, bags and shoes, are to be unveiled to retailers next February for July delivery.
Akeroyd said the late founder set a strong template for McQ, and was instrumental in the decision to bring the brand in-house.
Sarah Burton, who was named creative director of McQueen following the founder's suicide last February, will oversee a new group of designers headed by Pina Ferlisi, whose experience in the US contemporary market is seen as vital. Ferlisi's resume includes stints at Generra, Coach, Marc by Marc Jacobs and Gap.
Akeroyd also described plans to pump up the marketing profile of the brand, with its m-c-q.com website the main vehicle. A film, in lieu of a look book, recently made its debut on the site, depicting four young girls in real-life situations wearing the pre-fall styles and talking about their lives. The McQ site will be the platform for e-commerce next year, and will be linked with Tumblr.com, a creative and blogging hub.
A women's pre-fall collection - recently unveiled in New York, Milan, London and Tokyo - is the first volley in an expansion drive for the five-year-old brand. Plans include a push into accessories and planting a bigger footprint in key markets such as America.
"We always felt there was scope to create a brand that was more accessible ? and a little more edgy," said Jonathan Akeroyd, president and chief executive officer at Alexander McQueen, part of Gucci Group. "We've got a strong ambition for it."
Expressed as wholesale volume rather than royalty income, McQ already represents about 20 percent of the firm's business, and should grow to 35 percent by 2012 given robust demand today for price-driven designer propositions, Akeroyd said in an exclusive interview. He declined to provide revenue figures.
"There still aren't that many luxury houses that have contemporary lines," he noted. "We've created quite a strong name and brand image."
The executive said prices for McQ - to be produced mainly in Asia, Turkey and Italy - have been shaved by about 25 percent, with jeans retailing at 1,540 yuan (US$231), dresses for 1,760 yuan, jackets from 2,640 yuan and printed T-shirts at 616 yuan.
McQ is currently sold in about 350 stores, primarily in the United Kingdom, Italy, Russia and Asia. There are five shop-in-shops ? including at I.T in Hong Kong ? plus three freestanding franchise boutiques in Kuala Lumpur, Shanghai and Hangzhou. Key wholesale clients include Selfridges, Harrods, Saks Fifth Avenue and Lane Crawford.
Although the business is currently tilted toward dresses and knits, with women's categories representing 75 percent of volume, Akeroyd said the range would be broader, and more casual, with the McQueen company fully in charge of product development.
The McQ pre-fall collection riffs on McQueen design signatures, such as men's tailoring and strict, structured silhouettes, spiked with some playful influences.
Complete fall-winter 2011 ranges for men and women, including jewelry, bags and shoes, are to be unveiled to retailers next February for July delivery.
Akeroyd said the late founder set a strong template for McQ, and was instrumental in the decision to bring the brand in-house.
Sarah Burton, who was named creative director of McQueen following the founder's suicide last February, will oversee a new group of designers headed by Pina Ferlisi, whose experience in the US contemporary market is seen as vital. Ferlisi's resume includes stints at Generra, Coach, Marc by Marc Jacobs and Gap.
Akeroyd also described plans to pump up the marketing profile of the brand, with its m-c-q.com website the main vehicle. A film, in lieu of a look book, recently made its debut on the site, depicting four young girls in real-life situations wearing the pre-fall styles and talking about their lives. The McQ site will be the platform for e-commerce next year, and will be linked with Tumblr.com, a creative and blogging hub.
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