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Fans of Shanghai Fashion Week
A model walked slowly down the runway in an all-white, full-length skirt with long train. It was studded with hundreds of thousands of chiffon flakes. The arms were covered by thick flakes as if they were two wings.
People around me whispered to each other. "She looks like a big bird," one of them said. "Look at those 'feathers.' How long would it take to make such a dress?"
It was the last piece on display at Lina Ma's first fashion show in Shanghai, eight years after the designer left the city for Paris.
In her 30s, she is one of the young emerging designers who paraded their 2010 autumn/winter collections during the Shanghai Fashion Week that ended on Tuesday.
"To me, the last piece represents the image of the 'Goddess of Hope'," Ma says. "It is hard to tell how much I have suffered to be able to present the show today. I'm so grateful to my friends who are always by my side to encourage me to keep on."
Ma once slept on the floor in Paris because she needed space to work, so she moved the bed out. One of her schoolmates, who was also from China, killed himself before holding his first presentation in Paris.
"I remember how shocked I was when I learned about it," recalls the Shanghai native, with tears in her eyes. "I sat on the Metro train by myself and cried for hours. Then I realized that I had to move on. There is always hope as long as you believe in what you are doing."
Instead of clothes, Ma designs accessories, or rather, accessories that are "wearable," as she calls them.
She combines the spirit of haute couture and a jewelry maker's techniques, creating unique pieces that can be worn either as a top or as jewelry. For example, Ma has created a big necklace using strings of black beads and feathers to be worn over a sheer black top. The pendant of an exaggerated necklace can be used as a beaded clutch. She has woven glittering crystals into the upper part of a wedding gown.
Ma is the first Chinese accessory designer invited to participate in "Premiere Classe," an accessory designers' trade show in Paris. She is also the first Chinese designer whose works are sold in L'eclaireur, the renowned fashion boutique of reference for fashion professionals. Her designs can also be found in Bergdorf Goodman in the United States.
"I really hope this show can help attract potential buyers in China so I can launch my business in my home country," she says.
Wan Mengyi held her debut show during Shanghai Fashion Week last year. According to her, commercial cooperation started to flow in after that, thanks to the exposure.
Now she collaborates with www.chictalk.com.cn, a Website promoting works by local emerging designers, selling clothes and jewelry pieces she designed specially for the Website at affordable price.
Graduating from London College of Fashion, Wan has worked as one of the accessories designers for UK fashion brands such as Topshop, Oasis and Monsoon, before she founded her own brand "Wan" in 2008.
"My works are often colorful and witty," she says. Her favorite brand is Marni.
It is obvious that Wan has a preference for bright colors - lots of them. She has also combined all kinds of fabrics and patterns in the 2010 fall/winter collection.
Chiffons are mixed, for example, with wool, cashmere and even fur; while floral patterns, geometric and animal prints are blended in some most unimaginable ways.
"I like it to be crazy and dramatic," the designer explains. "Through the collection I wanted to give the feeling of being vibrant, energetic and prosperous."
The accessories, including hats, necklaces, handbags and willow cases, are decorated with eye-catching elements such as flowers, eyes, knots and birds.
She glammed up most of the models with bling bling sequin leggings.
"I believe the sequin leggings will become must-have fashion items in the upcoming autumn/winter," she says. "They are very stylish, versatile and go well with anything."
Three young designers from Younik, a designer boutique in Bund 18, Jiang Ling, Ni Zhihua and Angela Chen, presented a joint fashion show featuring innovative men's knitted wear, chic party dresses and office clothes with an edge.
Shanghai Fashion Group celebrated its 60th anniversary through a retrospective show, while local fashion brand Qingyi, the country's leading Chinese-style clothing brand, experimented with new possibilities of traditional qipao by collaborating with Hungarian apparel brand Katti Zoob.
A few other international fashion brands made their debut in China during the fashion week.
Les Copains from Italy showcased a collection inspired by 1960s London. All the models appeared in "wetsuit" neoprene-feel leggings in black, white or gray.
The silhouettes featured clean straight lines or drapery. The outwear were generous and enveloping, loosely structured or cinched at the waist by zippers or leather belts. The jersey mini-dresses and tailored nappa leather dresses featured plunging necklines and tucks to accentuate the body shape.
J. Maskrey from London introduced the concept of skin jewelry to Shanghai for the first time.
Stunning creations combining leopard print, names and symbols swept down the runway. Black dominated the color palette, while the sparkling body art added a playful, brightening touch.
According to designer Maskrey, the inspiration for the "Pleasure" autumn/winter collection came from the 1932 film "The Mask of Fu Manchu."
She tried to present the image of a sexy, strong female criminal through the collection. Extravagant head pieces in the nature of fans dominated the second part of the women's wear pieces.
"The film was actually based in Shanghai," says the designer who was born to British father and Malaysian mother. "When I was doing the show in London, I never thought that I would bring it to Shanghai one day.
"The collection is super-glam and super-feminine," she adds. "Girls are happy when they wear clothes that make them feel sexy and pretty."
Maskrey started her career as a makeup artist but soon broke away from traditional methods by using crystals to make stick-on motifs and thus developed the original "skin jewelry." Celebrity clients for her dazzling form of body art have included Kate Moss, Mariah Carey, Gwen Stefani and Britney Spears.
In 2000, Maskrey branched into clothing, initially as a backdrop to her "skin jewelry" business. She debuted at London Fashion Week in 2001 and her clothing line came into focus with the fashion press.
Since relocating to Paris in 2006, she has produced seasonal collections using luxurious materials such as cashmere and silk, with the continual sheen of crystal embellishment on top.
"Shanghai Fashion Week is very different from London Fashion Week, but I think it's different in a good way," the designer comments.
"London Fashion Week tends to be more hectic, fast-forward and sometimes 'crazy.' However, fashion pieces on display in Shanghai are much more wearable, obviously targeting a certain market."
People around me whispered to each other. "She looks like a big bird," one of them said. "Look at those 'feathers.' How long would it take to make such a dress?"
It was the last piece on display at Lina Ma's first fashion show in Shanghai, eight years after the designer left the city for Paris.
In her 30s, she is one of the young emerging designers who paraded their 2010 autumn/winter collections during the Shanghai Fashion Week that ended on Tuesday.
"To me, the last piece represents the image of the 'Goddess of Hope'," Ma says. "It is hard to tell how much I have suffered to be able to present the show today. I'm so grateful to my friends who are always by my side to encourage me to keep on."
Ma once slept on the floor in Paris because she needed space to work, so she moved the bed out. One of her schoolmates, who was also from China, killed himself before holding his first presentation in Paris.
"I remember how shocked I was when I learned about it," recalls the Shanghai native, with tears in her eyes. "I sat on the Metro train by myself and cried for hours. Then I realized that I had to move on. There is always hope as long as you believe in what you are doing."
Instead of clothes, Ma designs accessories, or rather, accessories that are "wearable," as she calls them.
She combines the spirit of haute couture and a jewelry maker's techniques, creating unique pieces that can be worn either as a top or as jewelry. For example, Ma has created a big necklace using strings of black beads and feathers to be worn over a sheer black top. The pendant of an exaggerated necklace can be used as a beaded clutch. She has woven glittering crystals into the upper part of a wedding gown.
Ma is the first Chinese accessory designer invited to participate in "Premiere Classe," an accessory designers' trade show in Paris. She is also the first Chinese designer whose works are sold in L'eclaireur, the renowned fashion boutique of reference for fashion professionals. Her designs can also be found in Bergdorf Goodman in the United States.
"I really hope this show can help attract potential buyers in China so I can launch my business in my home country," she says.
Wan Mengyi held her debut show during Shanghai Fashion Week last year. According to her, commercial cooperation started to flow in after that, thanks to the exposure.
Now she collaborates with www.chictalk.com.cn, a Website promoting works by local emerging designers, selling clothes and jewelry pieces she designed specially for the Website at affordable price.
Graduating from London College of Fashion, Wan has worked as one of the accessories designers for UK fashion brands such as Topshop, Oasis and Monsoon, before she founded her own brand "Wan" in 2008.
"My works are often colorful and witty," she says. Her favorite brand is Marni.
It is obvious that Wan has a preference for bright colors - lots of them. She has also combined all kinds of fabrics and patterns in the 2010 fall/winter collection.
Chiffons are mixed, for example, with wool, cashmere and even fur; while floral patterns, geometric and animal prints are blended in some most unimaginable ways.
"I like it to be crazy and dramatic," the designer explains. "Through the collection I wanted to give the feeling of being vibrant, energetic and prosperous."
The accessories, including hats, necklaces, handbags and willow cases, are decorated with eye-catching elements such as flowers, eyes, knots and birds.
She glammed up most of the models with bling bling sequin leggings.
"I believe the sequin leggings will become must-have fashion items in the upcoming autumn/winter," she says. "They are very stylish, versatile and go well with anything."
Three young designers from Younik, a designer boutique in Bund 18, Jiang Ling, Ni Zhihua and Angela Chen, presented a joint fashion show featuring innovative men's knitted wear, chic party dresses and office clothes with an edge.
Shanghai Fashion Group celebrated its 60th anniversary through a retrospective show, while local fashion brand Qingyi, the country's leading Chinese-style clothing brand, experimented with new possibilities of traditional qipao by collaborating with Hungarian apparel brand Katti Zoob.
A few other international fashion brands made their debut in China during the fashion week.
Les Copains from Italy showcased a collection inspired by 1960s London. All the models appeared in "wetsuit" neoprene-feel leggings in black, white or gray.
The silhouettes featured clean straight lines or drapery. The outwear were generous and enveloping, loosely structured or cinched at the waist by zippers or leather belts. The jersey mini-dresses and tailored nappa leather dresses featured plunging necklines and tucks to accentuate the body shape.
J. Maskrey from London introduced the concept of skin jewelry to Shanghai for the first time.
Stunning creations combining leopard print, names and symbols swept down the runway. Black dominated the color palette, while the sparkling body art added a playful, brightening touch.
According to designer Maskrey, the inspiration for the "Pleasure" autumn/winter collection came from the 1932 film "The Mask of Fu Manchu."
She tried to present the image of a sexy, strong female criminal through the collection. Extravagant head pieces in the nature of fans dominated the second part of the women's wear pieces.
"The film was actually based in Shanghai," says the designer who was born to British father and Malaysian mother. "When I was doing the show in London, I never thought that I would bring it to Shanghai one day.
"The collection is super-glam and super-feminine," she adds. "Girls are happy when they wear clothes that make them feel sexy and pretty."
Maskrey started her career as a makeup artist but soon broke away from traditional methods by using crystals to make stick-on motifs and thus developed the original "skin jewelry." Celebrity clients for her dazzling form of body art have included Kate Moss, Mariah Carey, Gwen Stefani and Britney Spears.
In 2000, Maskrey branched into clothing, initially as a backdrop to her "skin jewelry" business. She debuted at London Fashion Week in 2001 and her clothing line came into focus with the fashion press.
Since relocating to Paris in 2006, she has produced seasonal collections using luxurious materials such as cashmere and silk, with the continual sheen of crystal embellishment on top.
"Shanghai Fashion Week is very different from London Fashion Week, but I think it's different in a good way," the designer comments.
"London Fashion Week tends to be more hectic, fast-forward and sometimes 'crazy.' However, fashion pieces on display in Shanghai are much more wearable, obviously targeting a certain market."
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