Paris shows off fur on tops and arms
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SAINT Laurent unveiled its newly restored 17th century mansion atelier to a pack of astounded celebrities and fashionistas on Monday, capping a vivacious day of the 2016-2017 fall/winter ready-to-wear collections in Paris. Here are some of the highlights from the colorful, big shows in the past week, including reports from Saint Laurent, Hermes, Christian Dior, Issey Miyake and Vivienne Westwood.
Hermes’ softness
Designer Nadege Vanhee-Cybulski showcased an archetypically soft, luxuriant show for style powerhouse Hermes. A recurrent theme was angular sectionality, like with the stiff, three-dimensional sleeveless top sported flat interlocking panels above an ankle length skirt with stylish angular planes that evoked the motif of a herringbone floor. The French designer showed off her talent for the delicate. A huggable fur tank top was tied with a soft black leather Obi-belt and the fabric used in a series of cinched waist gray wool looks was so soft, it looked like the material had melted onto the model.
Saint Lauren’s Disco Dresses
The days of grunge are truly gone. Monday’s Saint Laurent show made sure of that with Hedi Slimane’s shimmering ode to the big-shouldered era of Eighties disco. Almost each and every one of the 42 looks featured a micro mini. Hair was slicked back, and eye makeup consisted of garish, thick black sets.
Giambattista Valli’s strips
Lauded Italian designer Giambattista Valli got out his finest couture needle this season. The result was an intricate and delicate collection of stripes and textures that was both feminine and complex and peppered with flowers. The optical play was then further evoked with a boot-style that was used throughout the 47-piece show that featured dozens of fine black straps fastening all the way to the knee.
Givenchy’s Conquistador
Givenchy’s Riccardo Tisci is often inspired by combat. Native Central American patterning — large eyes and Inca or Mayan-style geometric shapes — appeared in slim-fitting dresses and tops in dark, cream and yellow, on models with eyeliner that elongated the eye. The conquistador was represented by militaristic jackets in red, black and brown, sometimes with luxuriant fur arms.
Westwood’s variations
This season’s installment of Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood delved into the styles of the East. Looks started with baggy Indian pants, voluminous layered coats and loosely-draped Indian-style fabric gowns that came in the colors of natural dye, such as Chinese red, orange and carmine pink. A wide Chinese hat was then followed by a pale blue satin buttoned-up jacket and pale pink sweater that conjured up the pajama styles of age-old Burma.
Christian Dior’s Y-line
It was the second showing for Christian Dior without a designer. Clothes were soft, playing on crisscross motifs and unfurling, draped shoulders — evoking the influential Y-line that Monsieur Dior made famous in his 1955 collection, shortly before his death.
Issey Miyake’s shapes
The Franco-Japanese house of Issey Miyake continued its exploration of techno-fabrics for fall-winter. It started on a low, with multicolored cloth baked with geometric lines tending toward an overkill of contrasting color.
Rick Owens’ cocoons
Paris’ enfant terrible Rick Owens presented a typically strong show, which saw models becoming organically cocooned in material. And for once Owens has paid attention to the female form — highlighting shoulder, and presenting some billowing pant designs that enviably elongated the leg.
Celine’s simplicity
It was a beautiful and straight-forward collection at the normally thought-provoking Celine. Silhouettes were on the whole loose, and relied on voluminous lengths in the pants to produce the effect of swirling and layering. Colors were soft — peach, dusty pink, biscuit tan.
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