Rich fabrics, oversized garments are back
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ARMANI goes gritty
Metallic brush strokes across classic fabrics and dramatic zipper placements defined the new Emporio Armani line, aimed at youthful-minded dressers.
“I wanted to recapture some grit with a style that was not too aggressive,” Armani said.
Trousers come with a zip at the ankle, while more athletic cuts of pants carried the zip dramatically across a diagonal all the way down to the cuff.
Armani continued his exploration of the jacket, creating new versions out of soft rough-cut jersey with a waistband in the back that gives it a blousy feel.
Giorgio Armani, who celebrates 40 years in the fashion business this year, has been appointed to the role of World Expo 2015 fashion ambassador for the six-month fair opening on May 1.
Dolce & Gabbana pays homage to families
Viva la famiglia. Dolce & Gabbana kept the family close at heart during the menswear preview for next winter, featuring real-life families on stage, and even childhood snapshots of the designers’ own families on the scrapbook-style invitations.
Eight Italian families posed in the labels’ finery to create a tableau vivant background for the runway show — with a 2-year-old boy clad in gray short pants squirming charmingly in his father’s arms.
Family portraits adorned many of the looks: from rich sepia photographs of the assembled families to reproductions of Renaissance-era paintings of the Holy Family reproduced on velvet tops adorned with golden brocade stitching. The final look: a textured sweatshirt reading: “Ti Voglio Tanto Bene,” Italian for “I love you very much.”
In a tribute to real life, designers Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana featured not just the usual casting of young models but also more distinguished gray-haired gentlemen in formal business suits, eveningwear and big shearling coats.
Versace opts for softer style
Here’s a word you don’t often use to describe Versace: Cozy.
Donatella Versace’s collection for men had an unapologetically warm and cuddly core, with cashmere knitwear in long, lean ribbed tops, fitted knit leggings or bulky cable-knit cardigans.
And the revolution didn’t stop there. Gone were the usual heavy application Versace accents. Instead, the new Versace jacket, distinguished by its constructed shoulders and shorter cut, closed in one variation on one side with a plain horizontal clasp.
The simplicity carried through to the colors: monotones, in smoky urban tones of gray, burgundy and brown.
Androgynous looks
The Gucci style team may have pulled off a fashion record. They designed and produced the menswear runway show for next winter in five days, after outgoing creative director Frida Giannini left sooner than had been announced.
Gucci’s press team on site called the decision to redesign the collection from scratch “a new chapter.”
A team of young designers, led by head accessories designer Alessandro Michele, came out and took a collective bow, to sustained applause. Gucci said a successor to Giannini would be announced “in due course.”
Gucci’s androgynous collection appeared to be a tribute to French artists, intellectuals and revolutionaries in the wake of the twin terror attacks in Paris this month.
The hues of red, white and blue, the colors of the French flag, contributed to the sense of “je suis charlie” camaraderie that sprung up worldwide in the wake of the recent terror attacks in Paris.
Some outfits suggested characters from France’s rich cultural history. A white shirt worn with blue trousers and a red beret was reminiscent of a French school uniform.
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