What’s hot and what’s not at fashion week
Print Edition
NOT just individual styles but the entire fashion process was under discussion at the Autumn/Winter 2016 Milan Fashion Week, which wrapped up on Monday. Counter trends, Italian industry executives underlined that there would be no rushing Milan’s designs from the runway into stores.
If anything, the president of Italy’s National Fashion Chamber, Carlo Capasa, indicated a preference to slow down the arrival of these fall-winter fashions, sending them to the stores when the weather cooled, instead of in September.
Those who want the real made-in-Italy deal have to wait, for the most part, six months until Milan’s latest trends are on sale — a system that is not changing anytime soon.
Here are some highlights from the shows for the next fall and winter womenswear collections at Milan.
(AP)
Bohemian rhapsody at Armani
Velvet is the blank page on which Giorgio Armani drew his next fall-winter collection. Pants were for day, dresses for night and no bare legs this round. Evening looks included a velvet pantsuit with a crisscross top revealing the midriff and shoulders. The look was wrapped in a chiffon cloud. The color palate was mostly dark, with blurry floral prints in faded pink, blue and green. Footwear included nude ankle boots with shiny black heels and pointed toes.
Fendi tsunami
Karl Lagerfeld is creating waves with his latest collection for Fendi, which includes undulating garments, bags and even footwear. Fendi’s trademark fur coats included a short blue cape-like construction that bore athletic black-and-white stripes along the bottom, and was worn with thigh-high leather boots.
The overall dark palette was brightened by aquamarine, coral, purple, mustard and turquoise. Bags were furry delights, or stiffer leather with colorful patterns, including one sunset.
Versace’s female power
Donatella Versace’s woman is an urban powerhouse. The collection turns on daywear, from power suits to athletic-trimmed ribbed knits. Versace said that “every single piece is wearable, desirable, real.”
The collection also marked the return of Baroque elements to Versace, with black and white swirls set against psychedelic acid prints. Outerwear ranged from serious dark trenches with leather trip to ladylike pastel tinged white furs.
Pop goes Emporio
Armani dubbed the collection “New Pop.” And his Emporio fall/winter 2016/17 geometrical motifs graced handbags, were printed on blouses and became colorful broaches. Short trousers were loosely pleated, resembling skirts, and skirts were mini but not micro. Jackets were cropped and disciplined, with a double-breasted pea coat gaining sophistication from a green high-neck sweater that peeked from the hem and pixelated print trousers.
Gucci change
Alessandro Michele’s latest Gucci collection opened like a box of confections, full of frothy surprises.
In this collection, long diaphanous dresses flowed from an embroidered silk asymmetrical off-the-shoulder bodice or finished in a boa rainbow.
Ultra-feminine pink and aquamarine created the air of a 1950s housewife out on the town in some of the softer looks.
Kaleidoscopic flair
Missoni unveiled its new collection in a disused factory against the backdrop of a light installation.
The looks came in a kaleidoscope of colors, with knits ranging from fine, nearly sheer long trousers worn with a matching vest and trailing sweater for a sophisticated look to soft matted knits worn as mini dresses for a cozier vibe.
The family-run fashion house added vertical stripes to its trademark horizontal zig-zags, for leggings, overcoats and tunics.
Outerwear included capes of tiers of fringe and blankets worn as ponchos.
Over the rainbow
The Salvatore Ferragamo runway was alive with color, playfulness and ironic twists. Heartbeat pattern zigzags, oversized houndstooth and checkerboard patterns gave the looks a fantastical feel.
The silhouette was slim and sophisticated with playful touches like big buttons on cropped bodices, contrasting zigzag ribbons and rows of vertical zippers that, when closed, created a shiny pinstriped pattern, but when left open, revealed another layer of garment below.
Prada vagabond
Corseted up, collar askew, it’s bon voyage for Prada’s vagabond. And the journey is life. Miuccia Prada favored military style jackets over pretty skirts and dresses for next winter’s looks.
Corsets of every variety defined the silhouette, worn over jackets and dresses, or sewn into overcoats. Outerwear, including trenches, capes and anoraks, was of a sturdy, military breed, mostly in olive green or navy blue, and worn with ample skirts, pleated or not, often in brocade, or tiny sheer mini dresses.
Dreams do come true
For a world where dreams do come true, designers Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana created an updated version of Cinderella’s blue dress, this one a simple cut covered with silvery and crystal beads, with princess short sleeves but without the scalloped layers of skirts from storybook illustrations. Designers turned the fairy-tale references around by focusing on a new generation of princesses who they described as “individuals first and foremost.”
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