FASHION is supposed to stand for a fantasy, a dream, something aspirational, like a beautiful illusion. In reality, fashion is nothing but a business. A designer survives only if his or her things sell; if they don't, she or he is out of the game.

What impressed me the most about this year's Shanghai Fashion Week, which closed on October 25, was the passion and persistence shown by up-and-coming designers from home and abroad. Some of them have been attending the annual event for years, such as Jenny Ji with her own brand La Vie, who still needed all kinds of sponsorship from a men's suit tailor, a perfume manufacturer and even a soft drink brand to make her show happen.

Some of the young designers don't have a complete collection yet but were not afraid to rock the runway together with other fellow designers - quite a few group shows were organized during the one-week event. And, unlike established designers who would only show up briefly at the end of the show, many of them walked out into the audience, their eyes showing anxiety, excitement and pride.

They all know it is a tough business. Accessory designer Lina Ma, a Shanghai native who presented her latest collection "Silhouette of Dreams" on October 22, remembered the days when she had to sleep on the floor because there was not enough working space for her in a tiny apartment in Paris. After working in the fashion capital for eight years, she moved back to Shanghai, in hope of creating China's own luxury accessory house.

To prepare for show, Ma missed the Paris Fashion Week in September, where she could have sold to buyers from high-end department stores such as Bergdorf Goodman and Harvey Nichols, as she did in the past.

"I don't regret it," she said. "I'm pursuing my dream."

Fortunately, she has support from Swarovski. The Austrian cut-crystal manufacturer has provided her all kinds of shining stones to produce the collection of more than 100 pieces. Further collaboration is under discussion.

"I don't 'pile up' crystals like some designers do," Ma said. "I try to discover the many possible ways to combine crystals and other materials to produce magical hues when they shine together."

The pieces on display were not the usual artificial crystal jewelry that are bling and nothing but bling. Ma skillfully combined crystals with natural stones she and her team sourced from all over China. For example, she wrapped a black tourmaline with a net of tiny crystal balls so that the original stone is presented in a more attractive shape and glitters at the same time.

Versatility is another highlight of her design. A string of crystals can be worn as "face jewelry" to accentuate one's side face silhouette, but it can also be worn as a necklace or even around the waist as a shining adornment.

"My inspiration comes from the Arab women who cover themselves with veils," she said.

"Nowadays, more and more women are dressed up like men as a way to 'protect' themselves. Meanwhile, jewelry has become more feminine and futuristic."

Another leading local designer Uma Wang was sponsored by Swatch to create a collection of airy, chic spring/summer clothes that match the Swiss watch brand's new Gent collection.

It featured a neutral palette of black, white, gray and khaki, all the designer's long-time favorite colors.

She created proportional, de-constructed silhouettes probably inspired by the art of origami. Different light materials such as cotton, linen and silk are mixed together.

The designer also made long robes and leggings using transparent silk to express an "exquisite, carefree feeling."

"I'm inspired by the glass surface of tall buildings in Shanghai - early in the morning, when the city is still asleep and wrapped in the mist," she said.

"I've been to fashion shows all over the world all the time, but what I saw today assures me that Uma Wang is talented," commented Madame Arlette-Elsa Emch, head of Swatch. "The collection is simple, trendy and classic."

She added that Wang will soon design a limited-edition watch for Swatch to be launched globally.

The first designer to "crossover" fashion and art in China, Judy Hua, paraded her new collection "Extension" on a giant, 35-meter long and 8-meter wide runway on October 24 in the new Shanghai International Fashion Center along the Northern Bund.

The collection, a mix of ready-to-wear and made-to-order pieces in bright hues, is inspired by the works of renowned architect Zhou Wei.

"To me, fashion is like fluid architecture," Hua explained. "They are both made to separate human beings from animals. While designing, I like to explore the relationships among fashion, architecture and human beings, as well as the contrast between soft and strong, eternal and momentary."

Some of the dresses feature strong, clear lines with exaggerated shoulder details while others are smooth, fluid and feminine.

Shanghai fashion stalwart Jenny Ji pays tribute to the beautiful calendar ladies from 1920s and 30s Shanghai with a collection titled "Calendar Girl."

"Let's revive the era in which people eagerly pursued luxury and fashion, and pay tribute to the beautiful and glamorous "Calendar Girl," Ji said.

She used smooth fabrics such as silk and velvet adorned with lace, which reminded me of lingerie worn by sophisticated European women. There were also many sexy, qipao-inspired body-con dresses featuring exquisite tassel details on the shoulder or jade details on the back.

Lingerie-inspired styles were also favored by many designers from Hong Kong, who presented a group show on October 23 in a temporary tent set up in Fuxing Park, where a majority of shows were held during the fashion week.

Souverain Romanrisme by Kev Yiu showcased an array of sexy, glamorous gowns made of laces and beads. Designer Yiu has created a sensational black evening gown featuring a corset top and a large, transparent train.

ESMOD graduate Cecilia Yau has blended haute couture details to daily ready-to-wear pieces in her "CM1328" collection. All the models wore fur-trimmed boots.

The fur vest was a staple piece throughout the show. Dresses were studded with crystals, pearls and beads. Even T-shirts and denims were decorated with lots of bling bling.

Both Yiu and Yau's works can be found in the recently-launched multi-brand boutique shop DBHK in Xintiandi.

DBHK, or Designed by Hong Kong, sells more than 30 Hong Kong fashion brands, which mostly are by individual designers and in Shanghai for the first time. Apart from CM1328 and Souverain Romanrisme, it also sells selective collections from other Hong Kong designer labels such as Effeminee and Chai Chai for women and Harrison Wong for men.

"The designers we chose represent now and future of the Hong Kong fashion circle," said Christina Zhang, marketing director of DBHK. "We know how important their creativity means to the industry and we are happy to help them reach to a larger audience."

A temporary shop was also set up near the Fuxing Park tent during the fashion week, where people can find latest works of local young designers, including several not made to the runway this time.

"I really hope my show will help attract potential buyers in China," said designer Lina Ma.

A group of fur designers from Haining in the nearby Zhejiang Province, six Taiwan designers with distinctive personal styles and seven avant-garde Dutch designers also strutted their stuff during the one-week event.