AS a country famed for its rolls, cakes and fondues, Swiss cuisine is often generalized as either decadently sweet or overpoweringly heavy.

Insiders here in Shanghai though say this doesn’t tell the whole story. With its alpine pastures and pristine mountain lakes, traditional Swiss cooking features high-quality cheeses and freshwater fish. Switzerland’s location in the heart of Europe has also had a profound impact on the country’s cuisine, which draws heavily from neighbors France, Germany and Italy. The country’s colder climate has also had led to the creation of many hearty, flavorful dishes well suited to its rugged terrain.

To get the real scoop about the country and its cooking, we spoke to three Swiss food and beverage experts here in Shanghai. Two of these Swiss natives were kind enough to share their favorite traditional recipes, giving readers a chance to sample the authentic flavors of this alpine country at home.

Simon Ruf

Executive chef at Hyatt on the Bund

Age: 37

Q: Where are you from?

A: Spiez, a small but beautiful town on the shore of Lake Thun.

Q: How many years have you been in Shanghai?

A: Five years.

Q: Is there anywhere in Shanghai that reminds you of your hometown?

A: Shanghai’s nice and quiet parks with natural scenery, such as Fuxing Park, always remind me of my beautiful hometown.

Q: What is one dish that represents Switzerland? Are there any misleading stereotypes about the Swiss people?

A: Swiss people are conservative and do things in a safe way. They do not take too many risks. So I think steamed rice with gold leaf represents us. For everybody, rice is a safe choice. And a touch of gold leaf on top also makes the plain rice a luxury. Switzerland has a stable, prosperous and high-tech economy and enjoys great wealth, being ranked as the wealthiest country in the world. People may think the Swiss are rich or extravagant or wasteful. But this is not true. Swiss people also live and work in earnest.

Q: What makes Swiss cuisine distinctive? What are the latest trends?

A: Swiss cuisine is influenced by many other cuisines — such as French, German and Italian — but is based on local produce. There are a lot of rivers and lakes in Switzerland, so it produces the best freshwater fish. Also, many vegetables are unpolluted and organic. Meats are from free-range farms. Cheese also plays a key role in daily cooking since we have one of the best dairy industries in the world.

Nowadays, more and more Swiss restaurants embrace a farm-to-table philosophy. Besides sourcing seasonal ingredients, they buy ingredients from local farms instead of importing them. This philosophy embraces a sustainable approach to agriculture and dining, encouraging people to eat locally, freshly and healthy.

Q: What do you think of Swiss dining in Shanghai?

A: Frankly speaking, the Swiss flavor is not perfectly authentic here, although many restaurants try their best. Some restaurants adjust their recipes, putting less salt into dishes. However, the biggest challenge is sourcing ingredients.

Chef’s recipe

Waadtländer Flammkuchen

Ingredients:

Pizza dough, enough to roll out a circle roughly 3 millimeters thick;

Crème fraiche 180g; salt 1/4 tea spoon; potato 300g (diced thinly); Saucisson sausage 300g (can be replaced with other meats, such as bacon or pork sausage); spring onion 2 sprig (diced, separate the white and green parts); black pepper (taste to season)

Steps:

1. Season the sour cream with salt, spread evenly on top of rolled out pizza dough.

2. Add potatoes and sausage (or other meat).

3. Add diced white spring onion.

4. Season with a touch of salt and black peppermill.

5. Bake at 220 degree Celcius for about 15 minutes.

6. Garnish with diced green spring onion.

If you wish, you can add additional black pepper.

Beat Loeffel

Executive pastry chef at Pudong Shangri-La, East Shanghai

Age: 55

Q: How long have you been in Shanghai?

A: One month.

Q: Where are you from?

A: Basel, in the northern part of Switzerland.

Q: Where, or what, in Shanghai reminds you of your home?

A: So far nowhere. The two places are so different. Switzerland makes me feel calm ... Outdoor activities dominate daily casual life; for example, boating in summer, skiing in winter, as well as running and cycling. However, one thing in common between the two is public transportation — always on time and efficient.

Q: If you had to pick one food or drink to express authentic Swiss life, what would you choose?

A: Definitely cheese fondue with white wine, and chocolates. White cheese fondue looks like the snow-covered mountains in Switzerland. Rich chocolate warms you up.

Q: Switzerland is known for its high quality chocolate. What makes Swiss chocolate so distinctive?

A: It was the Swiss that changed the way we enjoy chocolate — from drinking it hot to eating it cold. The Swiss add milk and sugar to cocoa paste and butter, mixing and stirring them for three days to create a melt-in-your-mouth texture.

Swiss chocolate also distinguishes itself with its unique flavor, thanks to milk from cows living in the Alps.

Q: Besides chocolate, what are the highlights of Swiss pastry and confection?

A: Chocolate is always the highlight. Many classic Swiss cakes and biscuits use chocolate as the main ingredient. Besides, Swiss pastries rely on precisely following the recipe.

Chef’s recipe

Cocoa powder 20g

Steps:

To make sponge:

1. Mix cocoa powder with water, and set aside.

2. Melt butter, and set side to cool.

3. Beat whole eggs and sugar until whitened.

3. Sieve cake flour and mix into egg mixture by hand.

4. Add cocoa water and mix by hand.

5. Add cooled liquid butter and mix by hand.

6. Pour into cake mold and bake at 180 degree Celsius.

To make chocolate cream:

1. Boil water, sugar and corn syrup until mixture thickens into a syrup.

2. Soak gelatine leaves in cold water for five minutes and add them to the hot syrup.

3. Pour hot syrup over chopped dark chocolate and mix by hand until it becomes cream.

4. Whip fresh cream and work into chocolate mix by hand.

To finish cake:

1. Make a syrup with sugar, water and Grand Marnier.

2. Slice the cold chocolate sponge into three layers.

3. Brush the top of each layer with Grand Marnier syrup.

4. Place the first layer inside a cake ring.

5. Top with 1/3 of the cream.

6. Cover with the second layer and top it with another 1/3 of the cream.

7. Top with the last layer and cover it with last 1/3 of cream.

8. Keep in refrigerator until cream has set.

9. Dust with cocoa powder and remove cake ring.

Philippe Huser

Owner of Napa Wine Bar and Kitchen

Q: Where are you from?

A: The French-speaking area of Vaud. Lausoon is its capital city. Its sub-region Lavaux is one of the most famous wine regions in Switzerland, and it is also a UNESCO heritage site.

Q: How many years have you been in Shanghai?

A: 11 years.

Q: Is there anything about Shanghai that reminds you of Switzerland?

A: Autumn in Shanghai ... resembles Switzerland in summer.

Q: What is a food or dish that represents Switzerland?

A: I would choose raclette and perch. Raclette is a semi-firm cow’s milk cheese, heated until melting and then served on top of potatoes. Perch is a small fish, like salmon but leaner and fresher. Usually we pan sear it in butter.

Q: Are there any misleading stereotypes about Switzerland worth mentioning?

A: Swiss people are often considered rich due to the high living costs in Switzerland. However, many people, especially some of the elderly who spend most of their money on insurance, are poor. Their life is hard.

Q: What makes Swiss wine distinctive?

A: Firstly it honestly reflects the soil. Secondly, Switzerland embraces three types of sunshine: direct sunlight, sunlight reflected off lakes and onto the vineyards, and sunlight absorbed by the old stone walls which release heat in the evening. Thirdly, we have around 67 different types of grapes. Among these, Cheasselas (a local white grape) plays a key role. The white wine is known for its clean and pure taste.

Q: Why is Swiss wine less popular than other European wines, such as those from France, Italy and Spain?

A: Production is very limited due to limited space, so there is not enough to export. Most Swiss wines are consumed locally.