A hip & tasty makeover for Britain’s fish and chips
Print Edition
A SLAB of battered fish on top of a heap of chips doused in salt and vinegar has long been one of Britain’s favorite dinners — but now it is getting a reboot.
A new wave of fish and chip restaurants is winning fans across London, while some of the capital’s most exclusive eateries have the humble dish on their menus.
The makeover for a meal which is nearly 200 years old comes despite the enduring popularity in Britain of fast foods such as curries, kebabs and burgers.
Organizers of Britain’s annual National Fish and Chip Awards boast of 10,500 “chippies” around the country, saying some 1.2 billion pounds (US$1.8 billion) are spent on the dish annually.
The organizers stressed the nutritional value, saying it was high in protein and contains vitamins while insisting that little saturated fat gets into the dish due to the speed of the frying.
At Poppies, which has branches in the fashionable London districts of Camden and Shoreditch, staff dress in retro 1950s uniforms while live bands, or the jukebox, serenade eat-in diners but the recipe is strictly no-fuss.
The menu emphasizes sustainably-caught fish, locally sourced from Billingsgate Market in east London.
Owner Pat Newland, who has been serving fish and chips for over 50 years, said that, when it comes to the food, there are no gimmicks. “There is no secret, no magic tricks — you have to do the job properly. It is definitely a healthy meal — some people only eat the inside.”
At other new generation fish and chip restaurants in London, the fish is served in beer batter, fine wines and craft beers are served with food, while diners can order side dishes such as fennel and dill salad.
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