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September 15, 2011

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Focus falls on stylish men during Fashion Week

MEN'S fashion is getting more colorful and classic designs are being refreshed with unusual fabrics as people look to their clothes to help them stand out in a tough economy, top buyers said during Fashion Week.

Spring fashions will focus less on mainstays, such as gray suits and silk ties, and more on fabrics, such as linen, and patterns, such as plaid.

Men are ready to have fun again after years of sartorial austerity, buyers said. They want their clothes to give them a boost in a competitive job market. And that means moving beyond the obvious, experts said.

Durand Guion, Macy's vice president of men's fashion, said: "What he does not want to do is buy things that look like what he already has."

Menswear has long been a relatively small business for retailers. Women's clothing sales at luxury chain Saks last year were more than double men's.

But retailers said the cultural shift that has made men more aware of fashion is permanent and can be a major source of growth. Neiman Marcus singled out menswear as a strong category on its quarterly earnings call this week.

Chris Cox, vice president of design and creative at Nautica, said: "Men are willing to take more risks. They are willing to experiment more."

The theme at Nautica's spring 2012 men's collection was a California road trip, featuring indigo suits made of linen, which buyers agreed would be a popular fabric.

Saks' men's fashion director Eric Jennings said most men do not wear suits to work any more, making mastering business in casual wear more important.

One of the biggest trends in men's fashions in coming months will be a "British invasion," with tartan patterns, tweeds and "dapper" UK dressing, Jennings said.

Men's fashions will have bolder colors, he said, with camel replacing gray as a foundation color.

Designers have also blended seemingly incongruous styles. Guion said military motifs, such as the color olive green and metal buttons, will influence some classics such as the cardigan.

Bloomingdale's men's fashion director Kevin Harter, said men are embracing more accessories, such as pocket squares and scarves. And the sports coat is back in fashion.

"Nightlife is back," said Harter. "It is chic to dress up to go out to dinner again."




 

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