Imperiled bluefin tuna price dives at Tokyo auction
Print Edition
Sushi restaurateur Kiyoshi Kimura paid 7.36 million yen (US$70,000) for a 230-kilogram bluefin tuna in the year’s celebratory first auction at Tokyo’s Tsukiji market yesterday, just 5 percent of what he paid a year earlier despite signs that the species is in serious decline.
Kimura’s record winning bid last year of 154.4 million yen for a 222-kilogram fish drew complaints that prices had soared way out of line, even for an auction that has always drawn high bids. Kimura also set the previous record of 56.4 million yen at the 2012 auction.
The high prices don’t necessarily reflect exceptionally high fish quality.
“I’m glad that the congratulatory price for this year’s bid went back to being reasonable,” said Kimura, whose Kiyomura Co operates the popular Sushi-Zanmai restaurant chain.
Environmentalists say growing worldwide consumption of bluefin tuna is leading to its depletion, and that those in charge of managing fisheries for the species are failing to take responsible action to protect it.
Japanese eat about 80 percent of all bluefin tuna caught worldwide, though demand is growing as others acquire a taste for the tender, pink and red flesh of the torpedo-shaped speedsters of the sea.
Stocks of all three bluefin species — the Pacific, Southern and Atlantic — have fallen over the past 15 years amid overfishing. Stocks of bluefin caught in the Atlantic and Mediterranean dived by 60 percent between 1997 and 2007 due to rampant, often illegal, overfishing and lax quotas. Although there has been improvement in recent years, experts say the outlook for the species is still fragile.
There were 1,729 tuna sold in yesterday’s first auction for 2014, down from 2,419 last year.
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