Paris fashion gala offers hope in a time of chaos
Print Edition
Paris fashion week opened in unique style on Monday, with students cutting the virtual ribbon for women鈥檚 ready-to-wear collections at a time of unprecedented chaos in the fashion calendar.
Deserted by several heavyweight designers, and still stuck online by the pandemic, organizers turned to students from the French Institute of Fashion for a dose of hope.
鈥淧eople have been much more open. They want to keep fashion alive and give as many opportunities as possible to young designers,鈥 said one of those in the opening video, Clement Picot.
He drew inspiration from horror films such as 鈥淭he Shining鈥 and 鈥淎merican Psycho鈥 for his contribution, full of oversized comic-book shoulders that he said were a mix of his dreams and nightmares.
For youngsters like Picot, the need to stay virtual is no problem: 鈥淚 will be able to watch this video all my life. It鈥檚 maybe even more personal this way.鈥
But this fashion week, the fourth in Paris amid the pandemic, looks as disorganized as ever. Dior and Louis Vuitton pushed back their video broadcasts at the last minute, with organizers adding an extra day on March 10 to accommodate delays.
Rival holding Kering which includes Saint Laurent, Balenciaga is not presenting at all.
Anthony Vaccarello, Saint Laurent鈥檚 Belgian designer announced his withdrawal from the official calendar a year ago.
Others are setting their own timetables, reflecting the fact that many designers were tired of the relentless pace of the fashion calendar even before the pandemic created new logistical headaches.
Hedi Slimane, artistic director of Celine unveiled his men鈥檚 collection in early February with a video showing modern knights in leather jackets parading on the ramparts of the Chateau de Chambord on the Loire.
鈥淓verything is being called into question,鈥 said Berluti creator Kris Van Assche.
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