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November 3, 2021

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Preserving the Day of the Dead

The famed Day of the Dead ceremonies around Mexico鈥檚 Lake Patzcuaro were once again thronged with visitors on Monday, economic relief for a tourist-dependent region that suffered from last year鈥檚 pandemic shutdown of the observance.

In the lakeside city of Patzcuaro itself, tourists were treated to a parade, theater and music performances.

鈥淐ome and visit us, Patzcuaro welcomes you with open arms,鈥 said Julio Arreola, mayor of the city in the western state of Michoacan that is famed for its colonial-era plazas and architecture.

But in some smaller villages around the lake shore, residents tried to preserve the authentic, non-tourist flavor of traditions passed down for hundreds of years.

While kids in Mexico City donned Halloween-style costumes based on the Netflix series 鈥淪quid Game,鈥 people in the village of Arocut铆n were more concerned with the flower arrangements and candles meant to guide the spirits of the dead home.

Residents of Arocut铆n started hanging up traditional garlands of marigold flowers early morning Sunday to adorn the entrance of the small local cemetery.

Arocut铆n remains a holdout: It is the only town in the region where the cemetery lies in the churchyard, and where all the tombs are dug directly into the earth, surrounded by a simple ring of stones, rather than the more elaborate cement and brick vaults used elsewhere.

鈥淚t鈥檚 all about preserving tradition as much as we can,鈥 said Alma Ascencio, the representative for local artisans.

鈥淭ourism has distorted everything. This is a celebration, sure, but a religious one, so there is no music or much alcohol. It is very private, a completely different thing.鈥

While the island of Janitzio in Lake Patzcuaro is the site best known for colorful Day of the Dead celebrations, the tiny island remains closed to visitors to avoid crowding.

That raised concerns that tourists might flock to smaller villages nearby.

Those concerns may be overstated.

The only American in Arocut铆n on Monday was Georgia Conti. A retired healthcare manager, she decided to move to Arocut铆n precisely because of its beauty and traditions, and she now lives here with her dog.

鈥淪ome tourists do come around here, but here is a different world. I really respect their traditions,鈥 said Conti.


 

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