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July 16, 2013

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Tasty, unwanted: Snakeheads end on dinner tables

THE snakehead is an invasive species of fish from Asia that is threatening the delicate ecosystem of the Potomac River that flows through Washington into the Atlantic Ocean.

It also tastes great with onions and butter, said sport fisherman Brett Miron after catching a total of 50 kilograms of the otherwise slimy, hard-to-catch fish at the recent Potomac Snakehead Tournament.

The yearly contest in Maryland's Smallwood State Park brings together anglers and bow fishermen - those who catch fish with a bow and arrow - from many kilometers around in hopes of bringing snakehead numbers down.

"It brings people together to have fun and to do something for the environment. It's a winning formula," said Austin Murphy, organizer of the tournament that this year reaped 165 fish weighing a combined total of 480 kilograms.

Growing up to 1 meter in length, the sharp-toothed snakehead first appeared in the Potomac and its tributaries about a decade ago, arousing concern about its impact on local biodiversity.

Local authorities, adventurous restaurateurs and environmental activists responded by banding together to promote the snakehead's weakness: it tastes good.

"When we first started (the tournament three years ago), people would throw away their snakeheads," Murphy said.

"Now people are very tight with their snakeheads. They want to take them and enjoy them at home. It's nice to see that transformation."

Like the other fisherman who registered for this year's tournament at the end of June, Miron - part of a five-man bowfishing team - brought along an icebox to conserve his catch.

The 46-year-old mechanic from rural Maryland was motivated by the US$1,500 grand prize as well as the gastronomical feast that is no small part of the tournament.

"It tastes very good. I like them deep fried or grilled with onions and butter," Miron said, cautioning that snakehead is not the easiest fish to catch.

"It's a very clever fish, very smart. It's been in these waters for a few years. They're learning to know when to leave when they see the boats coming. They are a hard fish to catch," he said.

Chad Wells likes his snakefish barbecued. For three years, the thirty-something chef has featured it at his restaurant in Maryland's capital Annapolis, serving it with mango and peppers or spiced tacos.

Highly appreciated in Asia, the snakehead's presence is thought to be the result of some runaways from a live fish market in New York's Chinatown neighborhood.

Snakeheads spawn at least twice a year, they live 10 to 15 years, can survive a day or two out of the water in a humid place - and eat practically anything, including native fish species.

"They eat young white perch, yellow perch... occasionally young large-mouth bass. They are capable of eating a wide variety of prey," said Joseph Love of the Maryland state department of natural resources.





 

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